ABOVE: Boating Through Burgundy
Boating Through Burgundy
A fairy-tale world of meringue-tinted châteaux and ruined medieval fortresses drifts by as I sit on the petunia-emblazoned sundeck of the Napoléon. Venerable villages clustered around churches, stone farmhouses surrounded by creamy Charolais cattle, neat vineyards and acres of vibrant sunflowers – all these visions passed me by during my cruise on the River Saône through the enchanting region of Burgundy.
I was aboard the Napoléon, a pénichehôtel designed for just six to 12 guests, offering a floating country house ambiance. Created from the hull of a commercial barge built in Belgium in 1963, the Napoléon was converted into a luxury péniche-hôtel in 1991. My first encounter with this peripatetic halcyon was at the quayside of the charming town of Chalonsur- Saône. Famous throughout France as the birthplace of photography, it was here that Nicéphore Niépce produced the first image of nature in May 1816; his statue is close to the excellent musée Nicéphore Niépce.
After meeting my fellow travellers there was time to explore this pretty market town before dinner. Strolling along the rue aux Fèvres I came upon the neoclassical Cathédrale Saint-Vincent. In the shadow of its magnificent frontispiece I sipped a Kir at Le Moulin à Café, overlooked by tiered, half-timbered houses, before ambling past 14th- and 17th-century façades on the Grand Rue and rue de Châtelet.
A good night’s sleep, induced by the gentle lapping of the River Saône, preceded a breakfast of fresh boulangerie and tasty charcuterie, then it was time for a journey into the fabled heartland of the Côte d’Or. Aboard the mini-bus that accompanies the péniche-hôtel throughout its journey, our guide Jonathan explained the history of Burgundy’s most celebrated architectural attraction.
As the original seat of the dukes of Burgundy, Beaune became a city of power, culture and wealth. In 1443, as the Hundred Years’ War entered its last decade, Nicolas Rolin, Chancellor of Philippe-le-Bon, Duke of Burgundy, generously erected one of the supreme architectural and social monuments of the late Middle Ages. The Hôtel-Dieu, as Rolin called his amazing hospital, is one of the finest examples of that late-Gothic style known as flamboyant. The roof is a mosaic of colour, a complex geometric pattern of glazed tiles in yellow, green, rust and black. Peaked dormer windows and towers flaunt lacy lead finials, spires, weather vanes and pennants. The inside of this wonder is equal to the outside. Crowned by a massive oak-panelled, barrel-vaulted ceiling, the Great Hall of the Poor was where patients in the 31 beds received medical care as recently as 1971. The magnificent Polyptych representing the Last Judgement, originally placed high above the altar in the adjoining Chapel, was only seen by the sick on Sundays and feast days.
Our return to the Napoléon was along the celebrated Route des Grands Crus. We drove past the aristocrats of Bourgogne, glimpsing appellations such as Pommard, Aloxe-Corton and Puligny Montrachet, that dominated noble, pale-buff and pink limestone villages, surrounded by serried ranks of gnarled vines bearing chardonnay and pinot noir grapes ripening in the clay and limestone terroir.
Wild swans
Back on board, a delightful lunch of moules marinières, quiches, salads and a creamy Brillat-Savarin cheese, were all washed down by a locally produced Meursault. As we lingered over coffee, the engines rumbled into life and our crew steered a course past the confluence of the Canal du Centre. For the next five hours we navigated the River Saône southwards towards Mâcon – one of the oldest towns in France. We passed fishermen sitting under a canopy of plane trees lining the riverbanks. Families of wild swans bobbed along in our wake, seemingly unperturbed by our presence.
Having made our first descent of this expansive river at the relatively shallow lock – écluse d’Ormes – we arrived alongside the quai Lamartine in this former Huguenot stronghold and capital of the département of Saône-et-Loire. It was time for another taste of Bourgogne in the candlelit dining salon; we raised our glasses in a toast to the vainglorious Emperor watching over us from a watercolour on the rear wall.
I had read about the venerable Abbey of Cluny, but nothing can prepare you for the magnificence of this Benedictine monastery in the Grosne Valley. Founded in 910 by William I the Pious under the patronage of Saints Peter and Paul, the Romanesque abbey church was once the largest in the world, controlling more than 10,000 monks from Poland to Scotland. The abbey today is a ghost of the past – only one tenth of the original cathedral remains, but it retains a poignancy few other ecclesiastical ruins can boast.
To complete the morning tour we headed to the château de Cormatin, the former residence of the Marquis d’Huxelles. Built between 1606 and 1625 this imposing residence contains the most sumptuous Louis XIII apartments surviving in France. We saw exuberantly carved and gilded fireplaces, ceilings and panels; as well as paintings, tapestries and furniture, redolent of aristocratic life in the time of the Three Musketeers. Beyond the recently restored moat the garden is considered one of the most beautiful in France, complete with box-maze, belvedere and aviary.
Bucolic Beaujolais
After descending the narrow écluse de Dracé we arrived at the sleepy town of Montemerle. The following morning we immersed ourselves in the bucolic landscape of Beaujolais before once again returning to the Bourgogne region aboard our mini-bus. The oenophiles amongst us were euphoric as the elements of viticulture were explained by Madame Françoise de Lostende, owner of the 11th-century Château de Vinzelles in the canton of Mâcon Sud. We sampled four vintages made entirely from chardonnay grapes, ranging from 2000 to 2005; all agreeing that the former was the champion.
This passage through a living impressionist masterpiece continued after lunch as we headed south through our final Saône lock, the écluse de Couzon, towards Lyon. We sailed past the Île Barbe before the impressive skyline of the city appeared on both banks., the basilique de Fourvière dominating the cityscape.
As befits Lyon’s status as one of the world’s centres of gastronomic excellence, the Napoléon’s able chef Sarah, created a dinner that received great acclaim. Seared scallops were accompanied by boudin noir and tomato coulis; this was followed by confit of duck with rhubarb, served with creamed champ, braised leeks and summer peas.
Wines too did not disappoint, with corks drawn on a delightfully crisp 2003 Puligny Montrachet and a mouth-watering 2000 Pommard. It was at this point that Vanessa – born and bred in the heart of Burgundy – explained the three artisanal cheeses she was about to serve. We savoured Époisses, Neufchâtel, and Tomme de Savoie, before rounding off with a delicious strawberry charlotte.
This 142-kilometre incursion into provincial French life was the epitome of indolence à la carte. It truly was a trip to remember.
FRANCOFILE
Gary Buchanan travelled on the Napoléon, operated by Afloat in France and owned by Orient Express Hotels, Trains and Cruises. Each boat has six twin/double cabins with large shower rooms, a wood-panelled salon lounge, a dining salon and an outdoor dining terrace and sun deck. There is an exercise bike, Jacuzzi, as well as bicycles for exploring the towns along the riverbank.
PRICES:
Individual fares for a 6-night voyage from Chalon-sur-Saône to Tain L’Hermitage (two days south of Lyon), departing 24 August 2008 are £2,830; group charter rates start at £26,380 for eight persons. Prices include all meals, wines, bar drinks and on-shore excursions.
GETTING THERE:
Travel to Chalon-sur- Saône, Tain L’Hermitage, Avignon or Arles, is by Eurostar from London, travelling in Leisure Select Class. Transfers from Gare du Nord to Gare de Lyon are provided by Orient Express personnel and the onward journey is by TGV in first class. Afloat in France péniche-hôtels; Orient Express Hotels, Trains & Cruises; 20 Upper Ground, London, SE1 9PF, tel: 0845 77 2222, www.orient-express.com.
WHAT TO SEE
Musée Nicéphore Niépce; 28, quai des Messageries, 71100 Chalon-sur-Saône, tel: (Fr) 3 85 48 41 98, www.museeniepce.com Hôtel-Dieu, rue de l’ Hôtel-Dieu, 21200 Beaune. Tel: (Fr) 3 80 24 45 00, www.hospice-de-beaune.com/gb/musee Abbaye de Cluny, 71250 Cluny. Tel: (Fr) 3 85 59 12 79, www.monum.fr Château de Cormatin, 71460 Cormatin. Tel: (Fr) 3 85 50 16 55, www.chateaudecormatin.com Château de Vinzelles, 71680 Vinzelles. Tel: (Fr) 6 07 11 43 88, www.chateau-devinzelles.com
FOR MORE INFORMATION
Burgundy Tourism, www.burgundy-tourism.com. com Lyon Tourism, www.en.lyon-france.com Maison de la France, Lincoln House, 300 High Holborn, London, WC1V 7JH. Tel: 09068 244 123, www.franceguide.com