France by Car - 10 Great French Drives

I don’t normally get excited about going for a drive, but there are certain routes in France that have my pulse quickening at the mere thought. There are the twisting roads that lurch down from rugged ranges into a vast panorama of patchwork fields. There are those leisurely jaunts through sun-drenched valleys combed with neat vines that lead to enough seclusion for a lazy picnic of crusty bread, wine and cheese. Then there are the riverside drives that have you risking a cricked neck at every turn.

Yes, I have long since learned that discovering the real France is all about road trips. But not motorways or routes nationales, I’m talking back roads; I like to beetle along country lanes that promise to go nowhere but deliver you to magical and mysterious places. I like to drive down roads where the views stop you in your tracks; roads that take you to places that you never want to leave for fear of breaking the spell.

France is blessed with hundreds of them—far too many to write about—but here are ten of my favourites that are guaranteed to sharpen your appetite for driving through this glorious country.

The Vézère Valley

Devote at least two days to the stretch of river between Le Bugue and Montignac and you can claim to have followed in the footsteps of the first humans. Parts of the verdant Vézère Valley are so riddled with exquisitely decorated caves that the area has become known as the cradle of mankind.

Saunter around Le Bugue’s market—held every Tuesday for almost 700 years—before heading upstream to Campagne. Signs tempt you to visit any number of curiously painted caves, but press on to Les Eyzies-de-Tayac the undisputed world capital of pre-history. For an understanding of how Neanderthals progressed, the modern musée national de Préhistoire is worth a visit. For a taste of the real thing though, call in at the Font-de-Gaume cave—the only site in France where you can see original polychrome cave art.

By now you deserve lunch, so settle at a table in Georges Soulié’s Moulin de la Beune (rue du Moulin-Bas; tel: (Fr) 5 53 06 94 33, www.moulindelabeune.com; menus from 25€, rooms from 55€) and try his modern interpretations of classic south-west cuisine. The escalope de foie gras frais is truly delicious.

From Les Eyzies the drives in every direction are stunning, but take the back road to Tursac—note the 900 year-old church and nearby troglodyte village of La Madeleine. Continue via the impressive cliff terrace at Roque Saint-Christophe—colonised more than 50,000 years ago—to the charming little riverside town of Montignac. Here, in September 1940, four teenage lads discovered the Lascaux caves, site of the world’s greatest prehistoric art. A million visitors’ breath began to decay the exquisite art, so the caves were closed in 1963 and a replica, Lascaux II, was created nearby. Despite lacking the emotional charge of the real thing, it is nonetheless inspiring.

It seems only fitting that the area where mankind probably invented the wheel is blessed with such an awesome drive.

The Upper Loire

Conjure an image of France’s longest river and it will surely contain the magnificent châteaux found along the banks of the middle section. Missed by most, the upper reaches of the Loire have their own treasures that are well worth discovering. The drive from the gorges just north of Vorey through Le Puy-en-Velay to Arlempdes is one of those roads crying out for an open-topped tourer and a sunny afternoon.

Start at the breathtaking viewpoint at Roche-en-Regnier and follow the road as it unravels towards the valley at Vorey. Follow the river upstream through the gorges de Peyredeyre to Le Puy-en-Velay—a dramatic pilgrimage town famed for its churches and lace making. On Avenue Clément-Charbonnier, François Gagnaire runs his eponymous restaurant that has modern-day pilgrims to fine cuisine paying homage (tel: (Fr) 4 71 02 75 55; www.francois-gagnaire-restaurant.com; menus from 30€).

Wander through the old quarter of Le Puy before heading along sensational roads south to Cayres and Arlempdes. The latter is an atmospheric village perched above the nascent river Loire with remains of a château, an ancient chapel and a splendid gateway. Stay at the reasonably priced Manoir and ask for a table overlooking the river. Bliss.

The other Loir

It looks odd without an ‘e’, but there is another river Loir that runs parallel to its big sister. Jump off the new A28 at Château-du-Loir, north of Tours and head east through Vouvray-sur-Loir crossing the river at le Port Gautier and heading up the Dême valley before cutting back to the Loir at the pleasing little market town of La Chartre.

Further upstream, near Couture, is the Manoir de la Possonnière—a worthy detour. Further still is another must-see, the hidden troglodyte village of Troo. There’s a comfy little auberge here—Le Cheval Blanc—where you will eat remarkably well (place de la Libération, tel: (Fr) 2 54 72 58 22; Rooms from 50€, menus from 23€). Nearby Montoire’s dubious claim to fame is that Hitler met Pétain at the railway station here to seal his collaboration in 1940.

Scoot along more pretty roads to Le Gué-sur-Loir then on to Vendôme whose centrepiece is a massive abbey that dates back to the 11th century. Make sure you wander through the historic heart of Vendôme—there’s much to admire—and there are plenty of cafés and bars to bring you back to the present after a walk through time.

Brittany’s Rugged North Coast

Whether you’re on a Ryanair fly-drive break to Brest or you’ve driven off a Brittany Ferries ship at Roscoff, find time to motor along Finistère’s north coast. A good starting point is the seaweed harvesters’ village of Saint-Michel, north of Plouguerneau. To the west from the sands of la Grève Blanche there are stunning views across to île Vierge lighthouse—the tallest in Europe. With any luck, if you’re there near sun up or sundown, the light will be playing spectacular tricks and chances are you’ll have the place to yourselves.

Aim for Lilia and take in the rough and tumble of rocks that plunge into the shimmering sea. Scamper through Plouguerneau and follow the little road that tracks the north shore of the Aber Wrach (known as the Fairies’ Estuary) and turn back down the south shore—there’s a lovely view a mile or so before Lannilis.

It’s a quick flip from here to the port of Aber Wrach. The drive from the port along the Bay of Angels to Poulloc is a delight. Keep to the coast road for heart-stopping views before heading back to Aber Wrach for a meal at the superbly located Le Brennig (tel: (Fr) 2 98 04 81 12; menus from 20-39€)—you’ll find the food fits the setting.

Finally, head along the south side of Aber Benoît to the Dunes de Corn-ar-Gazel and gaze out to sea over the chaos of rocks. You’ll begin to understand why the ancients called this place Finistère—the end of the earth.

Burgundy’s Back Garden

Three roads run south from Dijon, the main arterial autoroute to the south, the marginally more ponderous route nationale and the comparatively pedestrian D122. Drive this route and it reads like a wine list you can’t afford. Along the way you will encounter such Burgundian stars as Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny, Clos de Vougeot and Vosne-Romanée. Keep going and you’ll bowl up at Nuits-Saint-Georges, a wine lover’s paradise and a great base from which to explore Burgundy’s back garden.

Browse around some of Nuits-Saint-Georges’ many cellars selling good wines before heading out of town to a good hotel-restaurant. Burgundians have long been renowned for their love of food and wine, so it should come as no surprise that the area is overflowing with excellent eateries. Two favourites are La Gentilhommière (west of Nuits-Saint-Georges in the Serrée Valle; tel: (Fr) 3 80 61 12 06; www.lagentilhommiere.fr; rooms from 85€, menus from 45€) and a little further west, at Bouilland, Le Vieux Moulin (on the route de Savigny; tel: (Fr) 3 80 21 51 16; www.le-moulin-de-bouilland.com; rooms from 80€, menus from 40€). In this land of gourmets and gourmands, you need to pace yourself, lunch lightly, and save up before you go—the best of Burgundy can be very expensive.

There is a delightful circuit that runs north-west from Nuits-Saint-Georges to the hilltop at Vergy. Rural life courses through the villages of Semezanges, Quemigny-Poisot, Urcy and Montculot en route to the Canal de Bourgogne at Sainte-Marie-sur-Ouche. Follow the road south along the canal before heading off towards Antheuil, then a short detour to Bouilland and return to Nuits-Saint-Georges. Along the way you’ll drive through sleepy villages that beg to be strolled around, you’ll be tempted by inviting forest walks, coaxed to stop at waterside picnic spots, and travel through countryside untroubled by modernity. And at the end of the circuit you’re back in some of the best wine country in the world ready for a little more indulgence.

Alsace Wine Villages

Perhaps the prettiest drive in France is from Rosheim, a short hop from Strasbourg, along the wine route to Ribeauvillé. Threading through vine-cloaked countryside punctuated by implausibly well-kept villages that overflow with colourful window boxes is an assault on all the senses.

At Obernai look out for signs to the old convent at Mont Sainte-Odile—the visit is worth it for the views alone, though many thousands are drawn here for more spiritual reasons. Wander through Barr and sample the rieslings, sylvaners or gewürtztraminer wines—it is particularly lively during the annual wine fair.

If the marked wine route becomes too busy, head up into the eastern heights of the Vosges to another magical viewpoint, the castle at Haut-Koenigsbourg. The road unravels back down to the wine route and Ribeauvillé beckons.

The region boasts some of France’s finest dining to complement the legendary wines. For a treat, try Le Haut Ribeaupierre (1 route de Bergheim, Ribeauvillé; tel: (Fr) 3 89 73 87 63; menus from 30€) or La Pépinière au Valet de Coeur (40 route de Sainte Marie-aux-Mines, 4km west of Ribeauvillé; tel: (Fr) 3 89 73 64 14; www.valetdecouer.fr; menus from 35€)—both are sensational. But some of my most memorable moments along the Alsace wine routes have been impromptu lunch stops at wayside restaurants with crowded tables spilling on to the roadside. As with most wine areas in France they offer fine wines by the glass—a safer option on a road trip.

Cathar Country

There has been an upsurge of interest in a craggy area of southern France, thanks to Dan Brown’s The Da Vinci Code and another bestseller Labyrinth, by Kate Mosse. Both draw on the legacy and legends of the Cathars. A stunning road trip is from one of their former strongholds, Quéribus to another tragic site, Montségur.

Quéribus, the last bastion of the Cathars, is perched like an eagle on a rocky outcrop. From its lofty heights the views are amazing. As you snake away, its magnetism has you craning your neck to catch glimpses of it on the road to another Cathar citadel—Peyrepertuse. First, though, call in at the pretty village of Cucugnan. Then, if you have a head for heights, take the time and considerable effort, to climb up to Peyrepertuse. From here, heading west over the col du Linas towards Bugarach is a classic drive.

The road joins the Aude valley at Couiza, the starting point for any visit to Rennes-le-Château. Conspiracy theorists will know all about this place—long since thought to have housed a secret treasure. The road from nearby Quillan heads west through Puivert, over the col de la Babourade to Montségur. The ruined castles of Quéribus, Peyrepertuse and Montségur were defensive strongholds and were liable to siege—the most infamous being when around 10,000 Catholic Crusaders surrounded Montségur and bombarded it with rocks for almost nine months. In March 1244, more than 200 Cathars, who had refused to recant their faith, marched down from Montségur, climbed of their own free will onto a huge pyre and were burned alive; high drama in some of the most dramatic landscape of southern France.

Basque Country

If you’re fed up of following the flock then follow the shepherds along the pretty Route du Fromage in Basque Country. A good starting point is Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port—a town with one of the most photographed views in France. From the bridge over the River Nive you’ll surely recognise the old houses with their balconies that back on to the river.

On the back road from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Saint-Just and the col d’Osquich you may have to stop while a river of sheep clatters over the road to new pastures. And it’s sheep that provide the cheese that gives the route its name. Known as brebis, it is a prince among cheeses.

The views near the col d’Osquich are a delight (they are even more spectacular if you walk to the isolated chapelle Saint Antoine). Nearby Mauléon is an interesting little place where espadrilles are made and there’s an opportunity to taste brebis in the town centre at the fromagerie des Chaumes. For lunch try the hôtel Bidegain before continuing via Saugis to Tardets, a true mountain town.

At Aramits, allegedly the home of Dumas’ musketeer Aramis, there is a shepherds’ festival on the third Sunday of September—it is a must if you want to understand the special rapport that exists between a shepherd and his dog.

From Aramits take the road through Arette to Escot, over the col de Marie Blanque to Bielle. All the way, the views of the mountains are stunning and all signs of mankind seem to melt into the powerful scenery.

Chambéry: Gateway to the Alps

The elegant town of Chambéry, historic capital of Savoie, is surrounded by scenic wonders. To the north is the lac du Bourget, to the south the awesome grandeur of the Chartreuse mountains and to the east the almost forgotten world of the Massif des Bauges.

Driving among such splendour is a sheer delight, sometimes more sheer than delight. For an unforgettable drive, try to find the D916 that climbs from the south-west suburbs of Chambéry. The road snakes over the col de l’Épine before turning north along the western slopes of the mont du Chat and cascading down to the shore of the lac du Bourget.

There is one of the most pleasing lakeside restaurants in France at Bourdeau—Auberge Lamartine—that has a terrace that seems to float over the water (tel: (Fr) 4 79 25 01 03; www.lamartine-marin.com; menus from 30€). Dawdle round the lake in a clockwise direction passing the imposing abbaye de Hautecombe (worth a visit) until you reach the northern tip then head south for Aix-les-Bains. This chic little thermal spa has lots to offer with a surprisingly good harbour and lakeside beach.

Leave Aix via the twisting road that climbs to mont Revard. From here you will have the most breathtaking views over lac du Bourget. The drive continues via les Déserts and sweeps back down to Chambéry. Take a stroll around the old quarter. Make sure you take in rue Juiverie, the place St-Léger and the labyrinth of little streets.

Vineyards of Provence

Wine buffs are an odd bunch. Given great wine, they can swill it around their mouths, spit it into a bucket, then liken its taste to a bizarre list of house-hold products. Worse still, they become sniffy about Provençal wines. Here’s a drive, from Brignoles to Flayosc, that will have you tasting wines as robust as the countryside that produces them, wines that everyone can enjoy.

On the outskirts of Brignoles is the hostellerie de l’Abbaye de la Celle set among the Varois vineyards. Once a nunnery that was closed by the Sun King due to its reputation for lasciviousness, it has been popular with foodies since Général de Gaulle enjoyed Coteaux Varois wines here in 1960. Stay and eat, but be warned, it can be wincingly expensive—lunch at the cosy café opposite will not bruise your wallet.

Wrestle your way through Brignoles, pass under the A8—the dorsal aorta of Provence—and head for the scrub-clad hills. Turn right at Châteauvert and you dive into the lovely Vallon Sourn gorge before reaching Correns, a perky village that claims to produce entirely organic wines. Try them at the auberge du Parc (place du Général-de-Gaulle; tel: (Fr) 4 94 59 53 52; www.auberge duparc.fr; menus from 42€).

Head for Montfort, then Carcès (take in the drive alongside the lake) before visiting the stunning abbaye du Thoronet. Now cut back up the Cassolle valley to the most photogenic town in Provence, Cotignac. Try the Provençal cuisine and superb local white wine at La Table de la Fontaine (27 Cours Gambetta; tel: (Fr) 4 94 04 79 13; menus from 24€).

Follow the road north to Sillans (walk to the waterfall) then the terracotta tile town of Salernes before driving through typical Provençal landscape and arriving at a typical Provençal hill-top town—Flayosc. With its tinkling fountains, dappled squares, winding streets and great eateries (L’Ostau on place Brémond is a must for true local atmosphere) it is one of my favourite resting places. Maybe it’s the rosé-tinted spectacles, but this part of Provence always seems magical.

NEED TO KNOW

Traditionally seen as tolerant towards drink-driving, France has seen a complete shift in official attitudes recently. Changes to the Code de la Route now mean France has even stiffer drink-driving laws than the UK.

The limit is now 0.5 grams of alcohol per litre of blood (g/l - UK limit is 0.8g/l). That’s approximately 2.5 units (a unit is one 125cl glass of wine, 25cl beer, or 3CL spirits).

Between 0.5 g/l and 0.8 g/l, the offence is classed as un contravention (a misdemeanour or civil offence), and carries a fine of up to 750€, a loss of six points from your licence, and your vehicle will be impounded at the side of the road.

Above 0.8g/l it’s classed as un délit (a criminal offence) and treated more seriously. The fine can be up to 4,500€, your licence can be taken away for up to five years, you may get the equivalent of a community service order, there’s a possible two-year prison term, and your car will certainly be impounded at the roadside, but may be permanently confiscated as well.

Cause an accident and you’re in even worse trouble: the fine goes up to a maximum of 30,000€. Injure someone and you could face up to 10 years in prison. And if you kill someone you could have to pay up to 150,000€ compensation.

ON THE RIGHT ROAD

Having travelled through France for more than 30 years I have become inured to the quirkiness of French road signs. Gone are the days when I used to turn sharp left into someone’s private drive because that’s where the sign to Rouen pointed. No longer am I surprised to find that the previously clear signs to Tours disappear as soon as you reach a bewildering roundabout with a three-lane entry. And I have long learnt that you sometimes need to drive all the way round the giratoire to see the sign you’re looking for tucked well out of sight. It’s all part of the fun of driving through France.

Having seen the furrowed brows, white knuckles and gritted teeth of drivers and the blushes of their long-suffering navigators mumbling excuses for being three hours late arriving at our Gascony home, I know how frustrating it can be finding your way in France. Help is now at hand. These days you can leave the road atlas on the back seat and relax, as a marriage-saving, blood pressure reducing gadget calmly takes all the guesswork and luck out of the being on the right road.

It used to be just my wife and I that set off across rural France, more in hope than expectation. Now we have a third party that has rendered my wife’s navigational skills redundant. Welcome to the world of GPS navigation. All we do these days setting out on a journey is to key in our destination and it, or should I say ‘she’, tells us how to get there. Christened Jane—that’s the name of the well-heeled voice that gives plenty of warning about where your next turn is—she has become a constant driving companion.

She’s marvellous; when she says in polite and measured tones “In 200 metres bear right” and you deliberately disobey because you want to go via the post office, she doesn’t throw a wobbly. Having found her advice ignored she says nothing. After a few moments, she comes up with an equally calm set of instructions recalculated from wherever you have ended up as a result of turning left when she told you to go right.

If you tire of Jane you can listen to Tim instead, or really clever technocrats can download any number of recognisable voices.

None of this technology comes cheap; be prepared to spend more than £400 for a sophisticated portable system with French mapping. Jane is a TomTom 700 with a big touch-sensitive screen and visual mapping. Designed to sit in a cradle fixed to the windscreen, she uses the Global Positioning System (GPS) to tell you where you are and where you need to go. She can be programmed easily and following her clear directions is simplicity itself. You tap in your destination address or postcode on the touch-sensitive screen and the gismo works out the best route.

You can choose to avoid motorways or go via a petrol station, bank, golf course or any other point of interest. Once you’re driving, you can ignore the advice and if you do take a wrong turning, the system immediately works out a new route. The screen shows how far to your destination, how far to your next turning, your estimated time of arrival, and even the names of the streets in the towns and villages you pass through. And if you have a Bluetooth phone, the TomTom 700 system can act as your hands-free kit while driving.

But we have had words once or twice when Jane has suddenly turned into a siren. Driving in northern France a few weeks ago, she insisted I turn off the main road into a field where she thought the A28 was. It turns out that it will be there one day, but is not even under construction yet! Conversely, I was on a brand new motorway near Tours that she didn’t know existed and she kept trying to turn me onto the byroads.

She’s taken me to the wrong golf course once and has tried to send me the wrong way down a one-way street. She also took me on a very long route around Tarbes and I could have sworn it was because she didn’t want to reverse into a parking space! But for all her occasional quirkiness I will never get back to my routes by way of that primitive portolano, the road atlas. Never again will I get grumpy over misleading instructions from my wife. And never again will I have to resort to hiring a taxi to lead me out of a Parisian labyrinth. Jane is my new best friend.

Recommended

TomTom GO 710: The new TomTom GO 710 has a recommended price of £599, but the model I use, the TomTom GO 700, can be found online at Comet or Amazon for £325.

Not Recommended

Reading a map whilst trying to navigate your way through a major French city during

rush hour.

More information on GPS systems

www.tomtom.com

www.garmin.com/uk