Room with a difference

When planning a trip across the Channel, part of the fun is deciding where to lay your head at the end of a busy day. With a huge number of options, travellers to France have a vast array of choices. Bed and breakfast in a cosy chambre d’hôte, or cooking for yourself in a homely gîte? A night under canvas or in a mobile home on one of France’s myriad campsites, perhaps? A suite in a swanky boutique hotel, or a room at one of the smart, national chains? Decisions, decisions… What you may not know is that France boasts a wealth of more unusual overnight options. All of them are comfortable, some of them are downright luxurious, but what they have in common is a unique angle. Fed up with anonymous rooms and run-of-themill décor? Read on for our guide to alternative accommodation, and start planning your next adventure in l’Hexagone.

SWEET DREAMS IN A FLOATING HOTEL

Falling asleep to the sound of gently rippling water makes for truly relaxing experience, so a stay on a converted commercial barge is ideal. Captain Julian Farrant and his Canadian-born wife Dannielle have been providing a nautical experience for guests on the Athos luxury barge for 17 years, since Julian ‘jumped ship’ and left the UK for a life in the Languedoc, where he met Dannielle, who was working as a hostess on Athos. Traditionally built in 1964 as a sand, grain and wine barge, Athos was designed for use on the south of France’s Canal du Midi.

She was converted into a luxury holiday vessel in 1982, and now holds five cabins, each with en-suite bathroom and a choice of twin or double beds, plus a main saloon with dining area, lounge and bar, and a spacious upper deck. In 2006 she had a total refit, and her proud owners keep her in classy condition. Guests are welcomed aboard with champagne and canapés, and three-course meals are served on deck as Athos glides gently through the shade of giant plane trees, past picturesque vineyards and villages, through locks and under 16thcentury bridges. The relaxed pace of a Canal du Midi cruise combined with Languedoc wines, gourmet cuisine and the Mediterranean climate make a stay on the Athos perfect for holidaymakers who like laid-back luxury. The slow pace of cruising means you can jump off easily and use one of the barge’s bikes to ride along the tow path and explore. A week’s full board, including food, drinks and daily excursions, starts from €2,330 per person, based on two sharing. Athos is usually moored at Carcassonne, served by direct flights from the UK.

To book, visit www.athosdu midi.com or call (Fr) 4 68 46 36 04. In a similar vein, L’Appart des Anges provides accommodation afloat, but unlike Athos, this 40-metre barge is permanently moored on the Canal du Midi at Cers, near the town of Béziers. With three double cabins, three separate terraces, a swimming pool and a BBQ area, plus TV, DVD and free internet access, the barge is best suited to couples who want to kick back and have fun. French owners Christophe and Jean- Philippe run a happy ship, where the emphasis is firmly on good times; a glance at their website www.appartdesanges.com gives you a taste of what to expect. Rates are €95-€120 for an overnight stay for two, with breakfast and brunch buffet included; call (Fr) 4 67 26 05 57 to book.

SLUMBER BENEATH AN UPTURNED FISHING BOAT

On Brittany’s Crozon Peninsula (known as the Presqu’île or Île de Crozon) are wild, unspoilt beaches, the region’s highest cliffs – and a couple of truly unusual places to stay. Hidden away in the hamlet of Kerlouantec, near Morgat, in the Finistère département, La Quille en l’Air (it means Keel Up) is a distinctive bed and breakfast created beneath the hull of a former Breton fishing boat, in the style of lodgings made in the 19th century by impoverished local fishermen. However, there is nothing impoverished about this chambre d’hôte, and guests staying in these bijou lodgings can enjoy life on the ocean wave without needing to find their sea legs. Fans of the great outdoors can take a bracing hike up to the summit of Ménez-Hom and enjoy the views, or explore the picturesque resort of Morgat, its crescent -shaped sandy beach and pretty harbour. After a day of cliff-top walks or a boat trip around the headlands and caves, the snug charm of La Quille en l’Air (pictured) is just the ticket. Inside, the atmosphere is suitably nautical, with marine-inspired fittings and a teak-lined bathroom.

The size of this romantic hideaway makes it well-suited to couples; a two-night stay in its one double bedroom costs from €75 per person, with additional nights charged at a rate of €37.50. In the same area, La Caloge is a 19th-century lobster boat that has been converted to create highly original accommodation that can sleep up to three. Prices per person for a two-night stay start at €104 including breakfast (additional nights are charged at €52). To get there, fly into nearby Brest, or take Brittany Ferries’ cross-Channel service to Roscoff or Saint-Malo. Bookings at La Caloge or La Quille en l’Air are handled through Brittany Best Breaks (0800 085 7739) or visit www.brittany-best-breaks.com

CUDDLE UP IN A GYPSY CARAVAN

Nestled in the heart of the Maconnais and Beaujolais vineyards, in the wine-making village of Saint-Amour, Le Paradis de Marie is a B&B with a difference. Although it has several sumptuous, creatively themed bedrooms and a selfcatering studio, many couples request the lovingly renovated, traditional gypsy caravan – La Roulotte de Marie. Situated in the well-kept grounds, it is at a discreet distance from the house where husband-and-wife team Marie and Stefan offer the use of a large games lounge complete with full-sized billiards table.

erfect for honeymooners or guests who prefer privacy, La Roulotte is a delightfully bohemian place to lay your weary head after discovering the Beaujolais area and the fine food and wines for which it is famous. Tucked in the northern tip of the region, Saint-Amour makes a spicy red wine that will warm your heart. Romance is definitely in the air here; coincide your stay with Saint Valentine’s Day and you can witness a special festival where women judge the local wines. Best travel options from the UK to Beaujolais are by air to Lyon, or by Eurostar and TGV to Macon-Loché. Prices for a two-night stay from €180, breakfast included. Call (Fr) 3 85 36 51 90 or visit www.leparadisdemarie.com

SLEEP WITH A CLEAR CONSCIENCE IN AN ECO-FRIENDLY HOTEL

Luxury hotel Maison Flore is in fact not one, but two, Marais Poitevin marsh houses, both built in the village of Arçais in 1870, but what makes this address particularly noteworthy is its green credentials. Bought in 2001, the hotel opened for business in 2003 after extensive eco-friendly renovation, implementing a renewable energy scheme and reflecting its owners’ environmental philosophy as well as their attachment to their marshland surroundings. Poplar-wood cladding and stone pillars feature throughout, and three rooms have been entirely built in wood. Highly conscious of sustainable development, the new owners have installed 40 square metres of photovoltaic roof tiles (more than sufficient for their needs in terms of electricity consumption). There are no radiators or air-conditioning units: instead, an aerothermal floor heating system is connected to the solar energy system. Only environmentally friendly cleaning products containing plant-based surfactants are used, and a 10,000-litre rainwater collector has been installed to recycle this precious resource. Maison Flore’s pastoral charm will appeal to lovers of luxury accommodation with a conscience. Parents with children are welcome; one of its rooms can comfortably sleep a family of four, another two can sleep three, and the remaining seven rooms are doubles. The hotel is 45 minutes from La Rochelle airport, or 90 minutes from Nantes; take the train from London via Paris on Eurostar and TGV to La Rochelle, or drive from the ports of Roscoff or Saint-Malo in three to four hours, depending on the route taken. Prices start from €45, breakfast is €9 (€6 for under-12s). Book by calling (Fr) 5 49 76 27 11 or visit www.maisonflore.com

SNOOZE IN CONTEMPORARY MINIMALISM IN A FORMER FARMHOUSE

At Michelin-starred chef Arnaud Daguin’s luxury chambre d’hôte, simply named Hégia, ancient wooden beams and timbers dating back to 1746 have been lovingly restored while preserving their rough-hewn appearance. However, the interior of this former Basque farmhouse is far from rough and ready. There are no gloomy shadows or rustic furnishings: this rural dwelling has had a top-to-toe makeover, transforming it into a minimalist shrine where simplicity reigns supreme. No expense has been spared on the rooms, which are perfectly pristine yet extremely comfortable. This is the place to come if you are serious about architecture and contemporary interior design. Raise your eyes to the 12-metre high ceiling with its massive oak beams, and marvel at the skill of French architect Xavier Leibar, who has married the essence of this rocksolid agricultural construction with the purity of modern-day design, using materials such as wood, metal and polished concrete. Visitors can take their apéritifs in the state-of-the-art, open-plan kitchen to watch Arnaud create mouth-watering meals based on the day’s catch and what looked good at the local market. As the former owner of famous Biarritz restaurant Les Platanes and son of a renowned chef, this host has more than a culinary trick or two up his sleeve. Arnaud’s wife Véronique presides over the service and a carefully chosen wine list, ensuring that her guests relax in this haven of contemporary calm. The simplicity of the décor is in perfect harmony with the no-nonsense heritage of this former Basque farm, but don’t be fooled: this is B&B deluxe, with prices to match. A double room, dinner and breakfast for two is charged at €600, or €700 if you take the pintxos (Basque tapas) option. Getting here from the UK is quick and easy thanks to low-cost flights into Biarritz (40 minutes’ drive away) or Pau (75 minutes). To reserve, call (Fr) 5 59 29 67 86 or visit www.hegia.com