France for City Breaks - Toulouse

The first thing you notice about Toulouse is its rosy glow. When the evening sun hits the russet-coloured bricks the city takes on a warm pink hue. However, it was not always thus; Toulousains wanted their homes to be made of cool, imposing, regal stone and so whitewashed over the sub-standard bricks in the 19th century so that residents could believe that they were rich beyond their wildest dreams.

That’s the story, but the truth is that stone was indeed a scarce commodity in those days and the whitewash had more to do with protecting the bricks. Happily, for whatever reason, the wash that covered the city 200 years ago is long gone and today visitors can see la ville rose in all its pink-toned glory.

It would be quite easy to believe that you were very rich in Toulouse. This is the land of plenty for food lovers. Everywhere you turn—and, as France’s fourth city, there are a lot of places to turn—there is an enticing restaurant welcoming you in. All serve exceptionally well-priced food in tasteful surroundings (more often than not, a brick-lined cave), using the finest local produce. The city itself is not short on charm. The old town is interspersed with congenial places and so whilst it is indeed a big city with some 430,000 inhabitants, it has the feel of a much smaller place. There are new discoveries at every corner; turn off any of the main roads and you enter a labyrinth of old streets that take you to hidden, café-lined squares. Toulouse’s main square is the place du Capitole and the extravagant 18th-century hôtel de ville (pictured above) presides over it. The arcaded walkways on the other side of the square offer pavement cafés where you can sit and take it all in. Take a peek inside the town hall, which is open to the public.

Follow rue du Taur off the place du Capitole and you get to the Saint-Sernin basilica, Europe’s largest Romanesque church. This colossal structure was built to accommodate the pilgrims en route to Santiago de Compostela.

The town is great for shopping and there is a good mix of well-known brands and one-off boutiques. The food market at marché Victor Hugo is a must for foodies. The market is open Friday, Saturday and Sunday mornings but several of the stalls have shops in the immediate area and there are wholesome restaurants above the market place. If you’re a market-lover, the Sunday market at Saint-Aubin is excellent too.

Should you arrive by aeroplane in Toulouse, you may well be lucky enough to see the gigantic Airbus A380 on one of its daily test flights. There are fascinating organised tours of the factory, although you do have to book in advance.

There is plenty to see outside Toulouse and the nearby town of Albi is the ideal day trip. Its renowned cathedral is breathtaking for its sheer size and the town itself is delightful. Make it a truly unforgettable visit by eating at La Table du Sommelier. Daniel Pestre, named ‘Sommelier of the Year’ in 2004, runs this restaurant; the food is quite simply superb and the wines complementing the meal are too good to turn down.

The pink city is a great destination for a weekend away, so give it a try, you’ve got nothing to lose!

CULTURE VULTURE

The town’s musée des Augustins has an impressive collection of art that was acquired after the revolution. The peaceful cloisters provide a fitting setting for the works that are displayed here.

The basilica Saint-Sernin is interesting not only for its size; architecturally, it is a testimony to the constant struggle between brick and stone. The eastern section, built first, is stone-rich but, as time went on and the money ran out, the western end finished up by being made almost entirely of brick. Similarly, the interior was originally painted at the eastern end but this peters out soon after and the west end once again went without. It’s a magnificent sight, all the more so for its brick construction.

A good afternoon out for families is the nearby Cité de l’Espace. This educational theme park allows you to see what it is like aboard the Mir space station and, in the children’s section, you can even build and launch your own rocket. The 3D Imax cinema is wonderfully effective.

AFTER HOURS

Toulouse comes (even more) alive at night. It is France’s second university city and so there is plenty going on. For the most part, it happily centres around food and eating out in Toulouse is an activity in itself. It is easy to find a good, very reasonably priced restaurant that serves local produce and eating can become the main focus of your stay. For an informal atmosphere, ‘graze’ on local saucisson, rillettes, pâtés and cheeses at Bicoq whilst admiring the contemporary art that is for sale on the walls. Excellent local wines are served here too. Several restaurants have embraced the original brick caves and made them into cosy, welcoming dining areas. Try Le Bruit Qui Court, Valentin or Le Genty Magre, all of which serve up delicious food with knowledgeable waiting staff. The town’s theatre has a full and varied programme and the bar and restaurant welcome an arty, mixed-age crowd with good, tasty food on offer. An evening stroll along the river is a pleasant way to walk off some of the excesses of the day.

GASTRONOMIC DELIGHTS

The local speciality is the ubiquitous cassoulet. It is essentially a concoction of beans and various types of meat and is an excellent winter warmer with recipes passed down from generation to generation. The region, Midi-Pyrénées, is known particularly for its duck and you will find that foie gras features on most toulousain menus. You may well come across something of a violet theme and do not be surprised to find a crystallised flower perfuming your sparkling wine apéritif. The local wines include Gaillac and you will be able to find red, white, dessert and even sparkling wines, all produced locally.

DON’T MISS

Toulouse les Orgues is the renowned organ festival that takes place in October every year. Venues throughout Toulouse put on concerts and it attracts musicians from all over the world. In February, the Festival de la Violette takes place and salutes the town’s floral emblem. If your French is up to it, pencil in an April visit for the Printemps du Rire.

GETTING THERE

By air Fly with easyJet from Gatwick to Toulouse.

By car Take the A10 and A71 from Paris to meet up with the A20 to Toulouse.

By train Travel by Eurostar to Paris Gare du Nord and cross to Montparnasse where you can catch a TGV to Toulouse.

WHERE TO STAY

In style

The Crowne Plaza hotel is in pole position situated in the heart of Toulouse.
7 place du Capitole,
31000 Toulouse
www.ichotelsgroup.com

Also on the main square is the Grand Hôtel de l’Opéra, a former 17th-century convent.
1 place du Capitole
31000 Toulouse
Tel: (Fr) 5 61 21 82 66
www.grand-hotel-opera.com

Middle of the Road

The three-star Mercure Toulouse Wilson is ideally situated right in the middle of Toulouse.
7 rue Labeda
31000 Toulouse
Tel: (Fr) 5 3 44 54 060
www.mercure.com

In the same district is the Holiday Inn Toulouse Centre.
13 place Wilson
31000 Toulouse
Tel: (Fr) 5 61 10 70 70
www.hotel-capoul.com

On a Shoestring

The two-star Hôtel Saint Claire is a good quality inexpensive option.
29 place Bachelier
31000 Toulouse
Tel: (Fr) 5 34 40 58 88
www.stclairehotel.fr

WHERE TO EAT

In Style

You have to look quite hard to find an expensive restaurant in Toulouse but Michel Sarran certainly fits the bill. Lunch menus start at 45€ and evening menus at 85€
21 boulevard Armand Duportal
31000 Toulouse
Tel: (Fr) 5 61 12 32 32
www.michel-sarran.com

Middle of the Road

La Table du Sommelier alone is worth the trip to Albi. A three-course dégustation menu with wine is just 25€.
20 rue Porta
81000 Albi
Tel: (Fr) 5 63 46 20 10

The candlelit intimacy of Le Bruit Qui Court provides an informal, bohemian setting for delicious food.
11 rue Jean Suau
31000 Toulouse
Tel: (Fr) 5 61 23 68 38
www.lebruitquicourt.com

Popular with the lunch crowd, the linen tablecloths come out for evening service at
Le Genty Magre.
3 rue Genty Magre
31000 Toulouse
Tel: (Fr) 5 61 21 38 60
www.legentymagre.com

Recently opened Valentin restaurant serves traditional food with a modern twist. Sit downstairs in the original cave to make it extra special.
21 rue Perchepinte
31000 Toulouse
Tel: (Fr) 5 61 53 11 15
www.valentinresto.com

On a Shoestring

Bicoq serves all local produce, tapas-style in an informal setting with great wines. Lunch menus start from as little as 10€.
2 rue du Coq d’Inde
31000 Toulouse
Tel: (Fr) 5 61 25 10 06
www.bicoq.fr.st

DID YOU KNOW?

One Saturday in June 2006, the town hall’s salle de mariage witnessed 75 weddings.