ABOVE: Eurockéennes
Music Festivals in France
A couple of years ago I travelled the length of France, from Gascony to Normandy, to hear my brother playing in his first professional gig as a blues harmonica player. He stood alongside five other musicians on the back of a flatbed lorry in a back street of Lisieux. There were 26 different music venues in that small Normandy town that night, each containing several groups of musicians. The beer flowed and the ancient town rocked. The same thing was happening simultaneously all over France. It was the night of the summer solstice, 21 June, France’s annual Fête de la Musique.
Created in the early 1980s, the Fête de la Musique, is a celebration of all kinds of music with an emphasis on free alfresco performances. For the past 27 years it has blossomed so much that wherever you are in France on Midsummer Day you will not be far from free music. And the annual Fête de la Musique signals the start of the music festival season all over France. Happily I don’t have to travel as far to enjoy three of the best, as they take place on my doorstep, here, in the Gers département of south-west France.
Perhaps the best known is Marciac’s Jazz Festival, which is staged during the first two weeks of August each year. For 30 years this medieval village with its beautiful arcaded square has been attracting the world’s leading jazz masters from Ray Charles to Aretha Franklin and Dizzy Gillespie to Oscar Peterson. In many ways it seems incongruous that such a normally sleepy place can become jazz central each summer. After all, there are no car parks, just farmers’ fields and there’s only one hotel, but everyone for miles around seems to rent out their spare rooms for the fortnight.
Jazz was born in the French quarter of New Orleans, and for the past 30 years musicians, aficionados and pilgrims alike have been building a bridge between Basin Street and Marciac. The main concerts take place in an enormous 5,000-seat marquee on the town’s rugby pitch.
But one of the most endearing features of Marciac is the way locals turn their gardens and garages into impromptu venues. Wander down any of the side streets and you will hear anything from a sensuous bass to a dazzling guitar riff – all enticing you into Marciac’s version of a speakeasy. It was in one such shebeen last year that I witnessed the most incredible solo guitar performance imaginable. An unknown young man from Lithuania played with unbelievable skill for almost an hour before passing a hat round for a fistful of coins – it was every bit as enjoyable as Sonny Rollins’ concert in the main arena.
While the big names play to capacity crowds in le chapiteau, lesser-known artists perform free concerts from the stage in the central square. Marciac’s four restaurants cannot possibly cope with the tens of thousands of jazz enthusiasts that descend each August, so a throng of tented eateries spring up serving specialities ranging from Cajun chicken to foie gras on toast. Part of my summer ritual is to sit at a stage-side table in Marciac’s splendid square on a sunny afternoon, sip pression pêche and be transported by the mellifluous music.
If country music was more my thing I could pop down the road to Mirande for the four-day country music festival held each July. Somehow though, Stetsons, cowboy boots and line dancing passed me by, but such is the draw of Mirande’s annual country music festival that last year they flew in the entire cast of Dallas to act as festival hosts – I even bumped into Sue Ellen at a local restaurant.
If line dancing doesn’t appeal, you could salsa through the night at another gersois music festival – Vic-Fezensac’s Tempo Latino. One balmy night a few summers ago I sat in the gods of Vic’s ancient bullring enthralled by that Cuban diva, Omara Portuondo, as she sang boleros and Cuban classics made famous by the Buena Vista Social Club. Throughout the town the streets were filled with couples dancing simple smooches, sensuous salsas and energetic Argentine tangos. Wherever you find yourself in France this summer there will be a music festival not far away. So if you want to rock around the clock, feel like singing the blues or just want to boogie on down, here is our guide to some of the best music festivals in France this summer.
Festival National de Blues 26 – 29 June 2008
Le Creusot
Burgundy sings the blues for a few days every June, in the village of Le Creusot. Last year New Yorker, Popa Chubby, wowed his audiences.
www.festival-du-blues.com
Jazz à Vienne 27 June – 11 July 2008
Roman Amphitheatre, Vienne
The Jazz à Vienne festival in the pretty Rhône-Alpes town of Vienne, just south of Lyon, is legendary. Founded in 1981, it is held in the largest Roman amphitheatre in Europe, attracting an impressive line-up enjoyed by around 100,000 people each year. The event has welcomed household names in jazz over the last two decades, including luminaries such as Ella Fitzgerald and Miles Davis. This year Diana Krall and Etta James will be performing.
www.jazzavienne.com
Django Reinhardt Jazz Festival 26 – 29 June 2008
Samois-sur-Seine
The annual jazz festival in memory of legendary gypsy guitarist Django Reinhardt is held at Samois-sur-Seine, where the guitarist spent much of his later life. There are four days of concerts and locals say that ‘because God is a jazz lover’ it never rains. In 1934 Django started a new concept with Stéphane Grappelli called jazz manouche, which gave jazz a European voice for the first time, with three guitars, bass and violin. Reinhardt died in 1953, but every year jazz musicians flock to the small town of Samois to pay tribute to his music and ensure that his unique style of playing is never forgotten.
http://django.samois.free.fr
Saoû Sings Mozart 28 June – 15 July 2008
Saoû
With a mere 420 inhabitants, the hamlet of Saoû along with 11 or so nearby villages in the Drôme, hosts an annual Mozart festival. Concerts are held in churches, castles and market squares. The prestige of Saoû Chante Mozart stretches far beyond the confines of these pretty villages dwarfed by the nearby Alps.
www.saouchantemozart.com
Sacred Music Festival 26 June – 6 July 2008
Église Saint-Martin, Ligugé
The Chemins de Musique are a series of sacred music performances that take place in churches throughout Ligugé and Poitiers in early summer. European choirs and ensembles make the most of the soaring acoustics to perform works of religious significance. Gregorian chants are always a favourite here, as are the atmospheric concerts at nightfall.
www.cheminsdemusique.fr
Eurockéennes 4 – 7 July 2008
Presqu’île de Malsaucy, Belfort
One of the old guard of French music festivals, Eurockéennes has maintained its cutting edge and continues to attract impressive names to the Presqu’île de Malsaucy in Belfort each year. Although the Eurockéennes site (on a peninsula jutting out into a lake, so the festival appears to be surrounded by water) is very imposing, it has occasionally been dogged by bad weather in the past. If your favourite band is playing, check the weather forecast and take your wellies with you, it may end up like a French Glastonbury. This year the early indications are that the following will appear: Massive Attack, Moby, The Offspring, Ben Harper, Calvin Harris and Babyshambles.
Full list available on the website. www.eurockeennes.fr
FrancoFolies 11 – 16 July 2008
La Rochelle
La Rochelle hosts an annual celebration of French music and chanson, known as the FrancoFolies. Gigs take place at venues around the town and feature music from across the spectrum, including folk, rock and jazz. The 2008 line-up includes Vanessa Paradis, Stacey Kent and Sébastien Tellier.
www.francofolies.fr
Country Music Festival 10 – 14 July 2008
Mirande
The pretty town of Mirande embraces all things transatlantic for this event – big bikes, big burgers, gassguzzling Chevrolets and country music. Alongside a music programme of international stars there is a meeting of motorbike enthusiasts, hot-air balloons, huge American cars and more than 200 stalls. Dolly Parton and John Wayne look-a-likes will be in demand for the election of Miss and Mr Country, and expect hoedowns aplenty in the Concours Européen de Danse Western. The music continues until the early hours every night and requires the stamina expected of all wannabe cowboys and girls.
www.country-musique.com
Jazz à Juan 11 – 20 July 2008
Antibes, Juan-les-Pins
Set in the Pinède Gould in the heart of a côte d’Azur holiday heaven, the Jazz à Juan festival is an annual favourite with performers and spectators alike. The atmosphere is distinctly Mediterranean with concerts taking place under the high branches of the few remaining pine trees that gave Juan-les-Pins its name – the rest sadly perished in the name of urban development. The event consistently attracts high-profile performers. Last year’s highlights were Norah Jones and Taj Mahal.
www.antibesjuanlespins.com
Un Violon sur le Sable 21, 23 & 25 July 2008
Royan
For three nights in July, Royan’s classical music buffs head to the beach for Un Violon sur le Sable. The festival features some of Europe’s top musicians and soloists and concludes with a spectacular firework display. Started 20 years ago when a lone violinist played to a small crowd on the beach, the event has grown considerably and now welcomes nearly 100 musicians.
www.violonsurlesable.com
Orange Opera Festival 12 Jul - 5 August 2008
Théâtre Antique, Orange
Les Chorégies d’Orange, created in 1860, is France’s oldest opera festival, held at the Theatre Antique, a magnificent Roman amphitheatre. The venue seats around 9,000 spectators and this summer will see performances of Bizet’s Carmen, Verdi’s Requiem, Fauré’s Requiem and Gounod’s Faust.
www.choregies.assoc.fr
Blues Passions 22 – 27 July 2008
Cognac
The sound of the blues fills the friendly town of Cognac for six days each July at the Blues Passions festival. Jam sessions, exhibitions, seminars and a gastronomic fair accompany the performances. The festival brings together international artists and up-and-coming blues performers. The event is organised by people passionate about their music and deals with every aspect of the blues.
www.bluespassions.com
Tempo Latino Salsa Festival 24 – 27 July 2008
Vic-Fezensac
Set deep in the Gers countryside, the friendly town of Vic-Fezensac might seem an unlikely place for four days of red-hot salsa. But what originally started as a small party in the bullring is now a fullblown festival that fills Vic with Latin rhythms each July. Don’t worry if you feel your salsa steps aren’t up to scratch – there are dance classes to help both adults and children with their moves. In addition to the main arena performances, there is also a full programme of free shows in local bars and cafés by bands playing the infectious rhythms of son cubano, mambo and cha-cha-cha, so visitors can dance until the early hours.
www.tempo-latino.com
Tremplin Jazz Festival 29 July – 2 August 2008
Cloître des Carmes, Avignon
Some of Europe’s finest jazz musicians come together to perform during the Tremplin Jazz Festival, held each year in Avignon. A series of concerts takes place in the glorious Palais des Papes and the Cloître des Carmes. The festival has an excellent reputation and consistently attracts an impressive line-up. Last year’s programme included vocalist Robin McKelle and Trio Roman Sclavis-Texier.
www.trempjazz.com