France for Families - Deux-Sèvres

Landlocked and often on the way to somewhere else, the département of Deux-Sèvres, once France’s ‘best kept secret’, is now a final destination par excellence. Wedged between five other départements boasting high-profile attractions, Deux-Sèvres is spared the excesses of summer overcrowding. Yet its towns, castles and châteaux have as rich a history as anywhere and there is space to explore its large stretches of open country.

If you like French towns, Niort, the capital of Deux-Sèvres, is the place to head for. Prosperous, and home to some of France’s major insurance companies, Niort has good shops and a wonderful Crystal Palace-style building sheltering an excellent market, open every day except Monday. Next to it stands the donjon, one of the most striking twin-towered castle keeps in France, which has become a symbol of the town. It is all that survives of a vast, defensive complex built by Henry II of England and his son Richard I, Coeur de Lion, towards the end of the 12th century. It houses a museum of local costumes, head-dresses, jewellery and furniture and there is a good view of the town from the top of one of the towers.

There are several churches and buildings worth a closer look including the église Notre-Dame built mainly in the 15th and 16th centuries, which has a large stained glass Jesse window, Renaissance choir stalls and a fine organ. The rather grandiose hôtel de ville is a scaled down copy of the hôtel de ville in Paris. And tree-lined rue Victor-Hugo, with a pedestrianised area close by is worth a visit. Niort has preserved much of its history but as its old industries, such as its port and the production of leather, died away it has taken advantage of modern commercial opportunities.

MEDIEVAL DELIGHT

Parthenay, in contrast, is a delightful medieval town to the north, with a population of 10,000. It is closely tied to the land with one of the largest cattle markets in France, stemming from a long tradition of cattle breeding in the surrounding area, known as the pays Gâtine. Parthenay grew up on a granite promontory in a bend of the river Thouet. Records show that in 1012 there was a feudal property on the site, which by nature of its strategic position, steadily grew in importance until it became a focal point in the struggle between the Plantagenets and the Capetians in the 13th century.

There were three lines of defence: the castle, the citadel and the town itself, much of which has been carefully preserved. A walk across the river Thouet, through the porte Saint-Jacques and up the rue de la Vau Saint-Jacques, is a magical stroll back in time past medieval houses, some of which still show traces of their owners’ occupations carved into the woodwork. And evidence of its religious past can be seen in the église Saint-Jacques and the Maison Dieu, built to accommodate pilgrims on their way south to Santiago de Compostela. Like Niort, Parthenay was on one of the secondary pilgrimage routes that pass through Deux-Sèvres.

Now classed as one of France’s villes et pays d’art et d’histoire—as is Thouars to the north—Parthenay’s history is the pride of its citizens, and visitors are very welcome.

If you enjoy visiting châteaux, Deux-Sèvres has one of the most original in France: the château d’Oiron. Stripped of its furniture and falling into ruin it was rescued by the State in 1943, and following years of major restoration it was opened to the public in 1993. After much debate, a decision was taken not to fill it with unconnected furniture and artefacts from the 16th and 17th centuries, when the major part of Oiron was built, but instead to recreate the Renaissance spirit of curios et mirabilia, Cabinets of Curiosity.

The whole château has now become a vast collection of strange and wonderful works of modern art, a fusion of past and present. It is thoroughly engaging because, although intellectual and challenging, it is not incomprehensible or elitist: the local community is intimately involved.

One of the most affecting rooms is lined with Sèvres porcelain plates, each with a blue line silhouette by Raoul Marek. On closer examination every one is different and actually represents the outline of one of 150 people from the village of Oiron in the early Nineties. Each plate is accompanied by a glass, engraved with the initials of the sitter, and a napkin with their palm print. Every year those who sat for the artist visit the château with their family to eat a meal using their plate and glass, which are then washed and returned to the wall. La Salle à Manger, created in 1993, is a reworking of the old tradition when royalty and grand families had their own plates and glasses.

The château itself is very grand and belonged to the Gouffier family for two centuries, the best known of whom, Claude Gouffier, was Grand Equerry to François I and Henri II. The most famous person to be associated with Oiron is Madame de Montespan, who, when no longer Louis XIV’s mistress, bought it for her son the duc d’Antin in 1700. She initiated several building projects before dying in 1707.

Signs of Oiron’s rich past can be seen in its ornate fireplaces and breathtakingly decorated ceilings. And just as striking is the contrast with conceptual art in this setting, all of which, however bizarre or ironic, has a link to Oiron through its history or decoration. Some pieces work better than others, but no matter how this extraordinarily eclectic collection affects you—from Charles Ross’s scientific The Year Of Solar Burns, to Yayoi Kusama’s magical Infinity Mirror Room you will leave with an almost childlike sense of curiosity and wonder.

REBORN

The 14th-century château Saint-Mesmin, to the north-west of Deux-Sèvres has an altogether different approach: the recreation of medieval life in a fortified château. After restoration work began in 1989, it was opened to the public in 1992, and with the help of European and French funding it has gradually been reborn. Across the drawbridge, the 28-metre-high keep, has a fine all round view. Not that it was ever really tested under siege. The first assault did not come until February 1796 when forty Vendéen royalists held out there for four days. There was little damage and the château was sold to the French government in 1798. The Proust family bought it in 1818, and during World War I it served as a military hospital. Now there is an imaginative programme of activities for visitors, particularly children, including: medieval markets, banquets, shows, concerts, dressing up, weapon handling, and treasure hunts.

Not far from Saint-Mesmin is Pescalis, a new haven for fishermen. Set close to the river Sèvre Nantaise, in peaceful grounds of around 375 acres, two thirds of which are lakes and ponds, anglers can find space to fish. Whether beginner or experienced, you can catch carp; European catfish; black bass; trout; salmon; sturgeon; and roach. The emphasis here is on eco-friendly angling, and after being caught and weighed, the fish are returned to the water.

There are fishing classes, an aquarium, a children’s club, and for those with other interests: riding, hiking, cycling, swimming and tennis. You can stay in a chalet village, a campsite, or a nearby hotel. There are restaurants, shops and a weekly market, and more importantly, apart from arrivals and departures, Pescalis is a car-free environment.

Also good for fishing, and car-free, are the tree-shaded canals of the Marais Poitevin, Deux-Sèvres’ Venise Verte. These can be seen by boat, on foot, or by bicycle as the area is criss-crossed by bridges. And there is no noise apart from the wind rustling the poplar leaves above—the only boats allowed motors are the emergency services. Shallow canal boats, known as barques, and canoes are the way to get around the 400 kilometres of navigable canals. You can rent your own, or be rowed by a guide, from Coulon, Arçais, and other Marais villages.

MAN-MADE WATERWAYS

The Sèvre Niortaise meanders slowly through the centre of the Marais. To each side of it are the man-made waterways, the largest being la rigole de La Garette. The main system consists of canals known as biefs, smaller canals called conches, and lastly fossés, mostly un-navigable, acting as drainage channels and property boundaries. Ash trees are used to keep the canal edges firm, their branches cut for firewood, and poplars are cut to make matches and camembert boxes.

A new generation of organic wine and cheese producers are working with natural resources in Deux-Sèvres. Benoît Blet and his wife have been in business around Oiron only a few years but they sell all the wine that they can produce straight from their cellars in the village. Their wines are strictly organic and they do not use pesticides, instead they plant flowers to keep down the weeds around the vines. Nor do they make any chemical alteration to the finished product, so that depending on sunshine and rainfall, their wine will have a slightly different taste each year.

François and Marie José Guillot produce organic goats’ cheese in Azay-le-Brûlé in much the same way that François’ parents used to do on the same farm before them but now their organic status and hygiene standards are checked twice a year. Their 240 goats go out to pasture daily. Marie José explained that they believe in selling directly to organic shops or in the local markets. Visiting their farm, one of several on what is called the Route du Chabichou, is yet another of the interesting things you can do in the area.

There is so much more to discover in Deux-Sèvres: its forests and its gardens; its legends and its history; its castles and its châteaux; not forgetting its religious heritage with the Abbaye Royale at Celles, the église Saint-Hilaire at Melle and others, marking its importance on the route to Santiago de Compostela. There is also a vast programme of concerts, fêtes, and cultural events.

Much of the Deux-Sèvres’ heritage has been protected or restored and local people are enthusiastic about what they have to offer and genuinely interested in sharing it—with you!

DID YOU KNOW?

Deux-Sèvres was created on 4 March, 1790 and named after the two major rivers that cut across the département: the Sèvre Nantaise that flows north into the Loire and the Sèvre Niortaise that flows through Niort and on into the Atlantic, north of La Rochelle.

The département was set up after pressure from the Niort members of the Assemblée Constituante, who wanted a separate département in the Poitou area. At first Parthenay, situated in the centre, was declared its capital on 9 August, but after more lobbying, Niort became capital.

On 29 May, 1808, the Sèvre Niortaise was the subject of an imperial decree signed by Napoléon, which ordered that from Niort to the sea, the river be maintained and kept free of all obstacles, and where its width came to less than 24 metres, it should be enlarged.

Beurre d’Échiré, a butter produced continuously since 1894, on a small farm north of Niort, is used by some of France’s top chefs and is served at the grandest tables, including that of President Chirac and Queen Elizabeth II.

Deux-Sèvres produces over 50 per cent of France’s goats’ cheese. The most famous is Chabichou de Poitou.

Angelica has been grown around Niort since the 17th century.

Special beans called mojettes are grown in the Marias Poitevin and together with ham, form one of the area’s traditional dishes.

After Henry Plantagenet’s (Henry II) marriage to Eleanor of Aquitaine in 1152, he ruled over half of French territory. There is still a stunning array of Plantagenet fortifications over North and Western France and several worth visiting in Deux-Sèvres including those at Thouars, Niort, Bressuire and Parthenay.

That Françoise d’Aubigné, born in Niort in 1635, widow of poet Scarron, known later as Madame de Maintenon, was married secretly to Louis XIV in 1697. She died in 1719.

AROUND THE REGION

Deux-Sèvres is in the Poitou-Charentes Region which also includes Charente, Charente-Maritime and Vienne. With around 450kms of long sandy beaches, pine trees, a mild climate and chalky cliffs, the region is a beautiful place to visit. Inland, historic cities such as Angoulême on the river Charente, have much to offer. and don’t miss family fun at Futuroscope. To find out more, turn to page 38.

FOOD AND DRINK

Deux-Sèvres specialities include farci poitevin: a terrine made with minced meat, cabbage, sorrel and parsley, fouasse de la Mothe Saint-Héray: a popular cake, celebrated by Rabelais, best eaten dipped in red wine. Others include mojettes, beans from the Marais de Poitevin; foie gras; eels, snails, goats’ cheese,butter and apples.

Thouarsais wines are sec, or demi sec whites, dry rosés, and reds which have a delicate raspberry flavour.

Anjou wines include a dry white, said to be gouleyant, very drinkable; light, fruity rosés; and rich red wines.

For Thouarsais wines visit:

Benoît Blet
79100 Oiron
Tel: (Fr) 5 49 96 52 16
www.isasite.net/domaine-terresblanches

For goats’ cheese visit:

François et Marie José Guillot
EARL Plaine de Foumard
24 rue de l’Abreuvoir
79400 Azay-le-Brûlé
Tel: (Fr) 5 49 06 29 76

ATTRACTIONS

Château d’Oiron
79100 Oiron
Tel: (Fr) 5 49 96 51 25
www.oiron.fr
www.monum.fr
Open every day, including w/e from 1 Oct-31 May, from 10h30-17h30; and from 1 Jun-30 Sept, from 10h30-18h30 but closed on 1 Jan, 1 May, 1 & 11 Nov. Tickets 6.50€ for adults, 4.50€ for 18-25 year olds, free for under 18s.

An ornate ceiling at château d’Oiron
Château Saint-Mesmin
79380 Saint-André-sur-Sèvre
Tel: (Fr) 5 49 80 17 62
www.château-saintmesmin.fr
Open from mid-June to mid-September from 10h30-12h30 and 14h30-18h30 every day; and from Oct-May, the fourth Sunday of each month. Ticket prices from 4€ for adults and from 2€ for children.

Pescalis
Tel: (Fr) 5 49 72 00 01
www.pescalis.com
Centre International Nature et Pêche is open all year.

Marais Poitevin
Tel: (Fr) 5 49 35 99 29
www.marais-poitevin.fr
Office de tourisme du Marais Poitevin des Deux-Sèvres.

For cycling in the Marais, visit:

La Bicyclette Verte
Route de St Hilaire-la-Palud
79210 Arçais
Tel: (Fr) 5 49 35 42 56
www.bicyclette-verte.com

FURTHER INFORMATION

Comité départemental
de tourisme Deux-Sèvres
15 rue Thiers
BP 8510
F - 79025 Niort Cedex 9
Tel: (Fr) 5 49 77 87 79
A very useful and friendly starting point, where they speak English and there are English translations of their brochures

Also visit:

www.poitou-charentes-vacances.com

HOW TO GET THERE

By air:

Ryanair flies to Poitiers and La Rochelle.

Flybe flies to La Rochelle.

By rail:

Eurostar to Paris, gare du Nord, then by TGV from Paris, gare Montparnasse, to Poitiers (1h30); Niort (2h12); or La Rochelle (2h51).

By ferry:

Any of the Channel ports will do but St-Malo (3-4 h) is the nearest, and Calais (6-7h) has the most frequent service.

By road:

The A10 from Paris and the A83 Nantes pass through Deux-Sèvres towards the south, close

to Niort.

WHERE TO STAY

International Tourist Association

Deux-Sèvres

www.ita2sevres.org

www.tourisme-deux-sevres.com

Tel: (Fr) 5 49 77 87 79

If this is your first visit and you would like to stay with English-speaking hosts in a B&B or a gîte, visit the websites above. ITA members live permanently in France and their hospitality and local knowledge will quickly make you feel at home in Deux-Sèvres.

Maison Bois Fleurie
Le Bourg
79800
Souvigné
www.maisonboisfleurie
Tel: (Fr) 5 49 76 03 42
For a warm welcome, Paul and Sue Woods, provide three comfortable chambres d’hôte with en-suite bathrooms, and two gîtes. They have a pool and pretty garden. Dinner en famille is available in the evening. Overnight stay in double room and breakfast: 60€.
Dinner per head: 26€.

Le Prieuré
www.leprieuredepressigny.com
Tel: (Fr) 5 49 63 53 71
For luxury in a converted priory, its tower, or its pavilion, Patrick Henneberry and Vince Willmott offer chambres d’hôtes and wonderful cooking. Le Prieuré has a beautiful garden and pool.Prices vary depending on the season. B&B prices from October to April: 75€ Dinner: 45€

Le Moulin de Chatillon
79600 Boussais
www.moulin-de-chatillon.com
Tel: (Fr) 5 49 64 27 99
Don and Sigrid Heendeniya have an expertly converted barn with pool, which sleeps 8 to 10. Prices from 825€ to 1940€.

Le Central
4 rue d’Autremont
79510 Coulon
www.hotel-lecentral-coulon.com
Tel: (Fr) 5 49 35 90 20
This comfortable and friendly hotel has an excellent restaurant specialising in regional cooking. A good base from which to explore the Marais Poitevin. Rooms: 58€. Menus:18.50€

WHERE TO EAT

Auberge des Fontaines
79300 Chambroutet
Tel: (Fr) 5 49 80 34 80
www.aubergeetfermeauberge.com
If you like duck or lamb. this is the place for you. Menus from 17-32€. Member of a group of ferme-auberges that use their own delicious organic produce.

Le Logis St Denis
Rue du Logis
79220 Champdeniers-St-Denis
Tel: (Fr) 5 49 75 68 54
www.bienvenue-a-la-ferme.com/
Poitou-Charentes
For home-produced beef, pork, poultry and goats’ cheese. Member of Bienvenue à la Ferme Poitou-Charentes, where you can enjoy traditionally cooked food in the farm where it was produced. Menus: 21€.