ABOVE: Parc Astérix

France for Families - France's Top Theme Parks

Looking for a slice of real French life? Then take an easy two-and-a-half hour drive south from Calais and you’ll arrive at a tree-filled oasis just off the busy A1. This isn’t the latest must-visit winery, or a picture-postcard village with a boulangerie to match; this is Le Parc Astérix—the place where French families come to have fun.

And come they do—in their hordes; more than 1.6 million people a year visit this unique French parc, with more than 85 per cent from France and half of those from the Paris area. So if you want to experience the French relaxing in their own backyard, this is the place.

The parc was created in 1989, in celebration of the cartoon folk-hero Astérix, the tiny Gaul with the miraculous strength who manages to stave off the attacks of the mighty Roman Empire with the help of his trusty sidekick Obelix (and pet dog Idéfix). The cartoon strip, written by René Goscinny and drawn by Albert Underzo, first appeared in 1959 and has gone on to become a staple of French childhood, translated into 29 different languages around the globe. Wanting to introduce my two boys, Sam, aged eight, and Isaac, six, to this Gallic hero, we travelled to the parc through Eurotunnel on a hassle-free and very quick trip.

Approaching the parc’s exclusive exit off the A1 excitement levels in the car soared as the children spotted a seven-metre-tall statue of Astérix peering down from a 30-metre-high hill, which greets visitors as they approach. As you might expect, Astérix is the focal point of the 155-hectare parc which has more than 31 attractions ranging from the terrifying Tonnerre de Zeus—the highest wooden rollercoaster in Europe—to the gentle Nationale 7, where children drive an old-fashioned car through rural France.

We stayed at the parc’s Hôtel des Trois Hiboux a short shuttle-ride away from the main gates. Our log-cabin style room with cosy bunk beds for the children was a big hit, and they enjoyed playing in the surrounding forest glades as we sat on the hotel terrace with a glass of wine.

But what about the parc and the all-important rides? Well, there are the obligatory scary ones for thrill seekers—four real white-knuckle humdingers—but there’s also a wide range of family attractions. We particularly enjoyed Le Grand Splatch, a water ride which culminates in a steep descent down a canal. And yes, you guessed it, we got very wet indeed.

But there’s a lot more to Parc Astérix than just the rides. It includes the Gaulish Village where Astérix lives, and a Roman amphitheatre. The live circus-style show there is packed with very Gallic humour and the children loved the magician. New for 2006 is a troop of Viking street entertainers, complete with longboat and another addition is Les Artisans dans la Rue de Paris, the recreation of a medieval street with potters, blacksmiths and others.

If you’re looking for a slightly different stop-off point on the way down south, then this is the place to come. Parc Astérix is much more than just a formulaic Euro-theme park. It seems to be an expression of French pride, identity and sense of humour and it is truly French—we saw just one other English family at the parc and very little English was spoken by the friendly staff—which adds to the French holiday experience. But it is also about fun, and the park got a resounding ‘thumbs-up’ from my children, who really didn’t want to leave... What better recommendation can you get?

Futuroscope

It was difficult to explain the concept of virtual and simulated to my children, aged 11 and 7, against the backdrop of their knowledge of the usual white-knuckle rides associated with British theme parks. Yet not knowing quite what to expect only added to the sense of adventure, as we set sail from Portsmouth for Saint-Malo and our trip to Futuroscope, one of the top 15 theme parks in the world.

We had taken the decision to drive to the park, just north of Poitiers; for us a round trip of 828 miles and approximately five hours each way, with a necessary stop. The suggestion of an overnight sailing was a good one; Brittany Ferries’ ship Bretagne was comfortable, just the ticket for a restful night’s sleep, and watching the Isle of Wight disappear over a good dinner and glass of wine was rather civilised.

As always, it was a pleasure to drive on French roads and we enjoyed the ever-delightful sights of French villages and unspoiled countryside as they passed by.

ACTION

As the landscape eventually became more industrial, the distinctive, futuristic shape of the crystal and the huge dome buildings of Futuroscope suddenly rose up. At first, we were struck by the sheer size of the complex. Built in 1987, René Monory had the ambitious aim of ‘harnessing’ the future attractions alongside an hotel complex offering 2,000 rooms, surrounding the state of the art Futuroscope Technology Park—leisure and learning side by side. We stayed at the Mercure Aquatis Hotel, a ten-minute-walk to the heart of the action, in a large, comfortable, air-conditioned en suite family room.

The park is a combination of contemporary buildings set among well maintained lawns and flower beds, with a welcome covering of trees to provide shade from heat in summer.

The children were delighted to begin their day with a greeting from a man-sized robot at the gate and, despite the combination of small legs and the size of Futuroscope, the free tram running around the park throughout the day made covering the ground easy. Free translator kits are available and are useful for all but competent French speakers.

To fully appreciate the facilities, you need at least two days and I would suggest that children need to be aged five or older (although only two attractions have height restrictions) in order to gain the most from all the park has to offer. Although there are queues at weekends, they move surprisingly quickly.

During the week, it is easy to change from one attraction to the other and we began at the top of the park and moved from one to the next.

Show times are regular and if you are prepared to wait for a short time for the next to begin, it really does become the best use of your time.

There are more than 20 diverse and often very creative attractions, taking you by train, rocket, foot, boat and car from film studio and outer space to the depths of the ocean with breathtaking, exhilarating speed.

This may generally be a virtual experience, but you can truly touch, feel and almost smell the things around you. A word of caution, the simulators really do move you!

This year, a new attraction Danse avec les Robots has been added, a technological gem in which two passengers take their seats at the top of a robotic arm and are moved in time to a series of musical sequences.

In addition, there are token-operated children’s rides, an adventure playground, several interactive areas and a whole arcade of both amusements and XBox games on plasma screens.

This is all clustered around the central lake, scene of the stunning laser show which takes place every evening.

The restaurant facilities are excellent and provide a wide, affordable choice with most being self-service buffets; from the obligatory offerings of a Planet burger to delicious French desserts, mussels, crêpes and steaks.

With 91 per cent of visitors coming from France, English isn’t widely spoken, making a visit to the park a truly exciting, French experience.

Disneyland Resort Paris

With more than 12 million visits a year, Disneyland Resort Paris is the most popular theme park in France. There are a total of 52 attractions in the Disneyland and Walt Disney Studios parks, along with a Disney Village packed with shops and restaurants.

I travelled to Disneyland Paris with five children under the age of ten and they had an amazing time. They particularly enjoyed the Pirates of the Caribbean ride which is suitable for all ages, and It’s a Small World, another boat ride, this time past mechanical singing dolls. But be warned—the annoyingly catchy theme tune will stay with you for a long time! For the brave, there is Space Mountain: Mission 2 which launched last year and we also enjoyed Star Tours, a simulator which makes you think you’re flying through space (and about to crash).

Disneyland Paris undeniably transports you to a different world and Mickey and co certainly have a universal appeal for children everywhere. However, that different world is not for those seeking a taste of the authentic France.

Disneyland Resort Paris is about 40 minutes from Paris by train and there are regular shuttle buses from Roissy-Charles de Gaulle airport. By road, take the A4 from the Périphérique (direction Metz/Nancy) and turn off at exit 13.

A day in the park costs £30 for an adult and £24 for a child.

Visit www.disneylandparis.com for more information.

Puy du Fou, Les Épesses, Vendée

Le Grand Parc of Puy du Fou just off the A87 and an hour from Nantes, takes you on an exciting journey back through time. There are five spectacular shows on offer as well as six themed villages and in just one day, you can see how Roman gladiators fought, do battle with a Viking longship and be seduced by the swordsmanship of a dashing musketeer. The live shows are fast-paced and rapt audiences can expect to see lions, horses, birds of prey and even pigs take to the open-air stages. You will feel the heat from the Viking explosion from your seat and the wind from the wings of huge vultures will ruffle your hair as they sweep overhead to the outstretched arm of the falconer. Lions prowl around the arena to test the strength of the gladiator and, in the age of the musketeer, horses dance in water in front of your eyes in a romantic, epic tale.

Having seen the shows, take the time to wander around the themed villages. The narrow streets of the medieval city are full of the sights and sounds of days gone by and visitors can learn the skills of master craftsmen. Within five minutes, you can fast-forward five centuries and visit the covered market place and bistro of a typical 19th century market town.

Book in advance to get tickets for the neighbouring CinéScénie which is a son et lumière show like no other.

Puy du Fou
85590 Les Épesses
www.puydufou.com

FRANCOFILE

Futuroscope is open every day between 4 February and 31 December, from 10am until the end of the La Forêt des Rêves evening show, which is included in the one-day dated-entry ticket.

A one-day ticket costs 31€ for adults and 24€ for children aged 5 to 16.

For a 2-day dated-entry ticket the cost is 59€ for adults and 44€ (for children aged 5 to 16). This includes all but one attraction as well as further interactive activities. There are additional amusements and children’s rides requiring tokens which must be purchased. It is worth checking out the special offers for 2006.

Visit www.futuroscope.com for more information.

HOW TO GET THERE

By road

Leanne travelled to the park by ferry and road, taking Brittany Ferries Bretagne crossing from Portsmouth to St-Malo.

The outward journey was overnight and included a cabin with private facilities. The return journey was a day crossing.

Exit 28 of the A10 motorway is 2 minutes from the Parc du Futuroscope’s main entrance.

By rail

TGV trains take you to the TGV— Futuroscope station. A footbridge brings passengers straight from the station to the park and for those travelling by train; there are price packages which include entrance, transport and hotel.

By air

Ryanair flies to Poitiers and Poitiers-Biard Airport is ten minutes away by taxi.

WHERE TO STAY

There are ten, 1-4 star hotels around the Futuroscope site less than a ten minute walk away.

Leanne and her family stayed at the 3-star Mercure Aquatis. A room for four people cost just under 158€, including breakfast. Children under 5 stay free.

WHERE TO EAT

There are prices to suit all budgets.

Choose between a takeaway and traditional, gourmet fare from the eight themed restaurants and ten takeaway outlets on site.

A fast-food lunch for a family of four costs around 25€.

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