France for Walkers - Snow-shoeing In The Pyrenees

Imagine standing at more than 2,600 metres above sea level, having just hiked your way to the peak without seeing a soul. In the thick of the Pyrénées with stunning views across to Andorra and Spain, you can make fresh tracks on a multitude of fantastic climbs.

I had flown to Toulouse, south-west France, to meet four other keen walkers for a snowshoeing holiday in Ax-les-Thermes. Ax, roughly speaking, sits between Foix and Andorra in the Eastern Pyrénées.

The Romans used this typical French mountain town for its thermal waters, but it wasn’t until around 50 years ago that the first ski resort opened here. With an easy transfer from Toulouse airport and mountain walks on your doorstep, it is the ideal base for a week of snowshoeing in the back-country.

On the rise

Snowshoeing, although previously under developed as a sporting activity in some areas, is currently witnessing a rise in popularity. In fact, sales of snowshoeing equipment have now overtaken those of cross-country skiing and a European Snowshoeing Championships is held in Andorra. I’m only an amateur walker, but I was keen to experience my first winter break snow walking some of the amazing Pyrenean mountain ranges. The other participants on this trip were all regular walkers and climbers with tales of amazing adventures in Peru, Morocco and the US, among other places. I was beginning to wonder if I had bitten off more than I could chew. But, as I was about to find out, snowshoeing, although not for wimps, is equally accessible to experienced trekkers and those who enjoy occasional hill walks in the summer.

There was no shortage of snow or stunning sunshine as we spent five days snow-shoeing with our mountain guide James, tackling new challenges each day. Of course, you can just amble around in the mountains snowshoeing, but we were a bit more adventurous. As we drove to our starting point, col de Puymorens (at 1,920 metres), we were faced with a high peak looming in the distance. My first reaction was one of disbelief and ‘yeah right, we’re gonna climb that’ under my breath. Everyone else, however, nodded approvingly at the day’s challenge, so off we went. Clear blue skies, thick unmarked snow and temperatures up to 25C stuck with us as we headed off to Tossa Rodona, standing at 2601 metres tall. The walk began with a gentle gradient along the glaciated valley, pausing only for stories of bears and avalanche information from our guide. After a quick snack break we began the first of two steep climbs, feeling the burn in my legs and digging into the snow I clambered my way to the top, and then again to the top of the second very steep incline. The views were already stunning, but the best was still to come. We composed ourselves and climbed the final metres along a ridge leading to the top. As a first timer in the mountains in winter I was in awe of my surroundings. We were quite literally on top of the world and no one could deny how beautiful it was. Snowy peaks surrounded us as far as the eye could see in all directions. As I took in the amazing 360-degree views in the bright sunshine, I had a huge feeling of achievement. As we sat taking in the vista, including the rugged peak of Puig Pedrós, we were amazed to see a few ski runs on the other side of the valley completely deserted.

I imagined the crowds falling over each other on the slopes of nearby Andorra, trying to navigate an uninterrupted path to the bottom. They needn’t have travelled far to be here instead, with empty slopes at their disposal.

Once we had eaten our lunch and recharged our batteries, we said farewell to the views and began our descent. Those two steep inclines seemed even steeper on the way down as we edged our way cautiously to the bottom. Our walk back took a slight detour to the left where we found another very steep drop that weaved its way downward. This was to be the first of many toboggan runs. Sitting on what can only be described as a plastic frying pan, we bombed down the slope, generally ending in a heap at the bottom with our trousers full of snow. After that excitement we walked the final stretch back along the valley.

Happy days

We had several days like this; after a hearty breakfast we would take a short drive then head for a peak, jumping on our toboggans back down, and driving home for cake and tea before our evening meals finished us off. Each day gave us a mixture of forests, rounded hills, peaks and ridges with glorious sunshine and consistently good snow. On our second to last day we drove to col de Puymorens again but this time we were heading up to pic de la Mina standing at 2,683 metres on the opposite side to Tossa Rodona. Heading off just above the ski resort we made a line for the trees and walked through them, eventually coming out to the edge of the ski slope. We then turned right up a very steep hill to a ridge, which gave us great views of the ski resort and across to the glaciated valley we had previously walked. The last section on this climb had to be done without snowshoes due to the incline and narrow path leading to the top. James our guide led the way with his ice axe at the ready to dig out any foot holes needed.

Kicking our toes into the snow to make steps we edged our way to the top and I would admit to feeling a bit nervous. It felt very exposed and the edge to my left seemed like a sheer drop, but I was extremely pleased to make it to the top unaided. Once again we were standing tall at 2,683 metres. We took in the spectacular views over to the spiky ridge of pics de Font Negra and other ridges that James told us also provide great summer treks. After taking photos of each other looking very pleased with ourselves, we began to head back. This nine-kilometre hike had been a great one for me, even though it was a bit nerve-racking at times.

Perfect end

Our last day was more relaxing, starting with a very pleasant six-kilometre walk to El Pic del Maia with views to Spain and the whole of Andorra. This slightly shorter walk allowed us to conserve some energy for the evening when James had booked us a table at a mountain refuge, Refuge du Chioula with food and drinks on order. Our evening walk was two kilometres through the forest each way, with a climb of just 150 metres. We headed off at dusk when it was still pleasantly warm. As we arrived it had begun to get dark and a net of stars were emerging above us. A roaring log fire greeted us and we tucked into a well-earned feast, discussing the great week we’d just had and future plans.

After devouring three courses it was time to walk it off under the night-time skies. A perfectly clear sky revealed more stars than you could ever imagine.

Navigating our way back in the darkness it was hard to keep an eye on where we were walking with such sights above us. It was the perfect ending to a fantastic week.

How to get there

By air: British Airways, Easyjet, bmibaby and bmi fly to Toulouse from the UK and prices start at £100 return

By rail: Travel from London Waterloo to Paris Nord, then change to Paris Austerlitz for a train to Ax-les-Thermes. Journey time is about 11 hours.

When to go

The snowshoeing season runs from October through to April. Remy Whiting travelled towards the end of the season, in mid-March.

What to wear

Snowshoes (worn over walking boots) enable you to walk on the deep snow without falling in up to your waist. They feel odd at first but within a few minutes you should be striding off without thinking about them. Walking poles are also used in the same way as in hill walking, and they can provide extra support and grip when needed in steep sections. For very steep inclines, maybe the last climb to the peak, it can be advisable to take the snowshoes off so you can dig your boots into the snow, forming steps to climb.

Snowshoeing equipment is usually provided. You will need to take suitable clothing, a good pair of stiff walking boots, gaiters and a backpack. You will generally be carrying two litres of water, a packed lunch, wind/water proof jacket and trousers, gloves and a hat, just in case bad weather comes in.

Guides

The benefits of a guide on an organised tour are invaluable. Not only do you not have the bother of maps and compasses, they always know exactly where to go each morning whatever the weather and snow conditions. The safety aspect of a qualified International Mountain Leader should be high on your list of priorities because weather conditions and avalanche risks are constantly changing.

Other attractions

Take a trip to the plateau de Beille to try out cross-country skiing or take a dogsled ride cross country. Other attractions obviously include downhill skiing and snowboarding, the thermal baths and the casino in Ax-Les-Thermes.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

Office de Tourisme
Ax-les-Thermes
Tel: (Fr) 5 61 64 60 60
Marmot-Tours Ltd
www.marmot-tours.co.uk
email james@marmot-tours.co.uk or
Tel: (Fr) 5 61 02 80 43.

Remy’s week was arranged through Marmot-Tours Ltd and cost £445 plus flight.