ABOVE: Source of pleasure.

Source of pleasure

Picture the scene: princes, emperors and politicians of different nationalities discussing important matters of the day while, at the same time, taking a bath together in thermal spa waters. It may sound unconventional but, at the end of the 19th century, this is exactly how European leaders and members of royalty discussed important matters of diplomacy. And the place they chose for this? The thermal baths at Aixles- Bains.

It’s easy to see what attracted them to this alpine resort. Aix-les-Bains occupies an outstanding position on the banks of France’s largest natural lake, lac du Bourget, framed on one side by the pre- Alps and the Jura Mountains on the other. During the 19th century, Aix became a popular spa town – it was widely believed that the thermal waters could treat a range of ailments and illnesses from rashes and arthritis through to TB and even hysteria.

Tea at the top

One of Aix’s most famous regular visitors was Queen Victoria who protected her identity by travelling under the pseudonym of the Countess of Balmoral. She famously ate scones at the top of mont de la Chambotte, a vantage point 850 metres above sea level with panoramic views across the lake. Many English and American visitors followed in the Queen’s footsteps to the fashionable resort and, during the Edwardian period, Anglo-American visitors constituted onefifth of Aix’s population.

Today, the thermal baths are no longer the preserve of the rich and famous. People from all walks of life come to enjoy the waters for its beneficial effects on health or wellbeing, although the latter is becoming increasingly popular. In fact, Aix attracts some 34,000 curistes (spa-goers) every year, making it the third biggest thermal spa resort in France (out of 140). The water is pumped from a natural source deep underground – 2,200 metres deep to be precise – making this the deepest drilled hole for spa water in Europe and possibly the world. As well as the two thermal bath resorts (Thermes Nationaux in the town centre and Thermes Marlioz in a 25-hectare estate), Aix also has three balneotherapy centres that form part of hotel complexes and ten hotels with pool, sauna and hammam.

The resort is quite unique in that the Thermes Nationaux are the last remaining nationally owned thermal baths in France. The French certainly take the medical benefits of cures (treatments) seriously, much more so than their English or American counterparts. In France it is possible to obtain a three-week prescription for thermal water sessions for the treatment of problems such as rheumatism or ear, nose and throat problems, all paid for by social security.

The Thermes Pellegrini, home to the national baths, is worth a visit even if you’re not having spa treatment. This grand building has been restored, renovated and added to over the course of decades, and today presents a melange of architectural styles. Napoléon III financed the building of the Thermes Nationaux in 1860 and considerable additions were made in 1932. During the work, the remains of Roman baths were discovered on the site. The vestiges of the Roman baths – with their trademark ‘hypocaust’ under-floor heating system – date back to 125 BC.

Of particular interest in today’s modern baths is the fine art deco architecture – the vast entrance hall with its water-inspired wall mosaics and windows decorated in the 1930s style. Vaulted corridors made from white flagstones, mosaics reminiscent of the Paris métro, the elegantly restored swimming pool and the historic buvette all transport you to the turn of the century and the artistic freedom of the Belle Époque. In 2000, the Thermes Chevalley, also part of the Thermes Nationaux, was built in the town centre.

These modern baths present an equally rich architectural style. With the exception of some of the treatment rooms, the entire building is bathed in light. Concrete, glass, wood and flagstones worthy of a monastery give this surprising building, designed by French architect Stanislas Fiszer, its distinct identity. A world away from pamper spa centres, with its stark treatment rooms and vast corridors, the building seems more like a hospital than a spa.

Martine Jans takes me on a tour of the vast building. The sulphur-rich water is 72°C when it is pumped out of the ground. She shows me several large vats, similar to wine vats, in which the water is cooled to approximately 33°C before it is used for treatments. “We let the water cool naturally,” she says. “We never add cold water to cool it down to ensure it is 100 per cent water from the source.”

Thermal therapy

Specific treatments have been developed for Aix-les-Bains known as ‘la Thermalothérapie’ or ‘Thermal Therapy’. Using thermal water and steam, the treatments that are unique to Aix include the ‘Berthollaix’, which uses thermal vapour and water jets to massage and stimulate the circulation. I was keen to find out for myself the benefits of these treatments. A word of advice for non- French speakers, the level of English spoken by the spa workers can vary greatly so it is wise to learn all the key words and phrases you might need before you go (see the vocabulary list). My first cure was a shower massage which combines the massaging effects of both hands and water.

While lying on a specially designed bed, a trained masseur carefully massaged my body while a soft jet of water continued the massaging effect. The treatment ends with an invigorating blast from a powerful jet of water, directed at different muscles by the masseur. While this conjures images of bath-time at the zoo (the power of the jet is certainly strong enough to give the muddiest of elephants a good clean), the effect is really quite good – the water massages muscles and joints, improves circulation and reduces cellulite. Feeling relaxed yet revitalised (if that’s possible), my next treatment is targeted at the body’s extremities – the hands and feet. These treatments (also specific to Aix-les-Bains) alternate water jets of different temperatures with steam and are excellent for those with circulatory problems and arthritis.

To finish my day, it was time for a dip in the resort’s extensive pools – an indoor pool filled with thermal water at 33°C and an outdoor pool filled with normal water at 28°C. Underwater jet beds and seats, swirls, counter-currents and fountains are all intended to provide extra stimulation for aching limbs and stiff joints. While it remains unclear why thermal water is so good for the health, there’s no doubt that one thing has stood the test of time – from the Romans to the Victorians to modern-day curistes – the attraction of the waters remains as strong as ever.