ABOVE: Les Domalynes
Hotel Review - LES DOMALYNES
One of my favourite finds in France in recent years is the département of Sarthe. The area is perhaps best known for hosting the Le Mans’ 24-hour race – one of the reasons I was visiting the area. A large number of visitors to the world’s most famous endurance race camp on-site, which is undoubtedly the best way to soak up the adrenaline-fuelled atmosphere. As for me, I chose to escape the roar of the engines and the crowds by heading for the countryside – and the small chambres d’hôtes, run by Bruno Mika and Pascale Le Breton, was the perfect antidote to a frenetic day of motor-fuelled fun.
Fifty kilometres from Le Mans, Les Domalynes tucks itself into a quiet rural corner of the département and is about 50 kilometres from the circuit (although it feels more like a million miles). Set back from the road close to the small village of Neuvillette-en-Charnie, the house occupies a quiet, rural location surrounded by pretty gardens.
From the moment you arrive, Bruno and Pascale’s warm, friendly welcome will make you feel at ease. The couple live here with their two daughters, trusty dog Pixie, two goats and a chicken. After moving in 2005, they opened the chambres d’hôtes in April 2007. The house dates from approximately 1800 and the décor retains the property’s rustic charm with its wooden beams and fireplaces. The furnishings are modern yet cosy with a distinct hint of English cottage charm. There are two guest rooms – I stayed in ‘Rosaé’, a quiet, south-facing room overlooking the garden. The other room, ‘Siloua’ has the option of a single bed as well as a double, or alternatively three single beds. In the gardens you’ll find an open-air swimming pool surrounded by sun loungers – perfect for relaxing after a busy day sight-seeing or enjoying the race.
Les Domalynes is a greatvalue place to stay if you’re keen to explore the Sarthe area – be it for the 24-hour race, the historic towns and villages or simply to indulge in the laid-back way of life.
72140 Neuvillette-en- Charnie Tel: (Fr) 2 72 91 68 83 www.domalynes.com
Rooms: €40 for singles, €50 for a two people sharing; €15 for an extra person (dinner is also available for an extra €20 per person including an apéritif and wine)
3 Thing to do in the area
HISTORY BROUGHT TO LIFE
Le Mans is renowned for hosting historical events in the summer months. La Nuit des Chimères takes place in July and August and uses colourful light displays at night-time to recount the history of Le Mans. The Roman wall, medieval houses, cathedral and cobbled lanes form the backdrop for illuminated gargoyles, angels, chimera and Le Mans’ historical figures. Medieval music accompanies the event. If you want to get even closer to Le Mans’ colourful historic characters, theatre group Les Chimériques brings the medieval cité to life with its theatrical walking tours led by characters including Jacques le Chimérique. The tours are a prelude to the Nuit des Chimères.
- Les Chimériques walking tours take place from Tuesday to Saturday. For information contact Sarthe Tourist Office on (Fr) 2 43 40 22 60 or visit www.tourism.sarthe.com
GLORIOUS GARDENS
Le Jardin du Petit Bordeaux is one of France’s unsung gardens. Some 3,000 varieties of trees, shrubs, rose gardens, hardy perennials and grasses that thrive in this 15,000 metre-squared garden. Botanists and rare plant enthusiasts will thrive here too!
- Les Jardins du Petit-Bordeaux, 72220 Saint- Biez-en-Belin. For more information visit www.jardindupetitbordeaux.fr or call (Fr) 2 43 42 15 30.
LADY OF LE MANS
The abbaye de l’Epau on the outskirts of Le Mans is one of the most beautiful Cistercian abbeys in France. It contains the tomb of Richard the Lionheart’s neglected wife, Berengaria of Navarre, who founded the abbey and spent the last 25 years of her life in the town. She is affectionately referred to as the ‘Lady of Le Mans’.