The forest itself is often referred to as les Landes, although the word lande actually refers to the type of landscape that was here before the conifers were introduced: les Landes were originally marshland pasture for sheep. Even though the forest itself ostensibly lacks much visual variety, travelling through the Landes is amongst the most memorable journeys that can be made in France; the trees just seem to go on forever.

For obvious reasons, wood pulp is a major product of the département. Biscarosse, near the coast, hosts an important military test range, and there are several champs de tir clearly visible on road maps amidst the carpet of trees.

To the south, where the département gets more hilly, maize and wheat are grown. The département is also well known for its free-range chickens, a large proportion of which are exported to Britain. The département is also the largest producer of foie gras de canard in the country.

Lot-et-Garonne (47) 

Population: 300,000
Principal city: Agen
Tourist board

The Lot-et-Garonne occupies much of the former Guyenne region (an English deformation of the name 'Aquitaine'), which was fought over by the French and the English throughout medieval times.

Its capital, Agen, isn't as well known as many other towns in the south-west, and indeed isn't always included in guides to France, but it has a rich history that can be explored in the well respected museum and art gallery. Several of the Renaissance houses have been amalgamated to house the museum, the star of which is the Vénus du Mas, a first-century marble sculpture found by a peasant in nearby Le Mas d'Agenais.

Saint Foy (or Faith) was martyred in Agen in 303, and the town was the birthplace of the remarkable Renaissance man Bernard Palissy (1510-1589), renowned for his 'rustic' high-relief pottery featuring lizards and other small animals. Palissy struggled for years to perfect his enamel on earthenware, to such an extent that it is said he was forced to burn his furniture to keep his kiln going. Less well known, but even more fascinating, Palissy was one of the first men to realise that fossil fish and shells are the remains of prehistoric animals, and not victims of the biblical Deluge. Because of his outspoken beliefs (and the fact that he was a Huguenot), he was imprisoned in the Bastille, where he died.

Another fondly cherished son of Agen was the poet Jacques Jasmin. Born Jacques Boë (or Boé) in 1798, he was a wig-maker who composed poetry in Occitan, which he recited to his clients. His works spurred new interest in the language, and Jasmin was received by Napoléon III and fêted throughout France.

This Gascon département is very rural, with little industry, and the population density is around half the national average. It is renowned for its agriculture and fruit-growing — in particular, prunes. The plum tree was introduced in the 16th century, and the département's most famous export, pruneaux d'Agen are the only prunes to have their own appellation contrôlée. There is even a touristic route du pruneau. Other important products of the area are armagnac, tobacco, strawberries and hazelnuts.

Another speciality, in the south of the département around Nérac, is the brandy Armagnac. Its production dates back to medieval times, and according to its proponents, its properties will cure headaches, toothache, and hepatitis.

Whether you should believe this or not is a moot point, because the département is also home to one of the funniest and most quirky festivals in France: the Fête des Menteurs (liars' festival) in Moncrabeau, south of Nérac. Traditionally, one of the most typical characteristics of a Gascon was his tendancy to swagger and bluster. As if to reinfoce this stereotype, the people the village of Moncrabeau, south-west of Agen, have created the Liars Festival, where the teller of the tallest and most amusing story wins the annual laureate. The origins of this festival are unclear but we do know that the Académie des menteurs was set up in 1748.

Pyrénées-Atlantiques (64)

Population: 579,000
Principal city: Pau
Tourist board

Although the most famous region of this south-western corner of France is undoubtedly the Basque Country - owing, in large part, to the fame of Biarritz as a top-class ocean resort - the département is not entirely populated by Basques. In the east of the Pyrénées-Atlantiques lies the Béarn, a region with deep historical roots. Its most colourful son was undoubtedly Gaston III, known as Fébus: Prince of the Pyrenees, Count of Foix and Viscount of the Béarn. He started his career as a warring prince at the early age of 14, and led an eventful life which included amassing a great fortune, writing verse and a guide to hunting, and killing his own son in a fit of pique. His life and legacy are remembered all over the Béarn, especially in Oloron-Ste-Marie and Pau, the département's préfecture, which enjoys panoramic views of the Pyrenees. Pau is a noble and elegant town which was used as a retreat by English expatriates in the 19th century - they constituted 15% of the population.

The Basque Country straddles the border between the extreme south-west of France and north-east of Spain. There are seven Basque provinces of which three (comprising about 20% of the total area) are in France — Labourd, Soule and Basse Navarre. The latter was the birthplace of Henry IV. Whereas the Spanish side is riven by Basque nationalism, the French are mostly happy to remain part of France. The Basque language, Euskara, is unique. Experts place it among the pre-indo-European languages languages which means that it is one of the oldest, if not the oldest, of European languages.

Once a humble whaling town, as far back as the 17th century Biarritz was already known for its invigorating sea baths. But it was Napoléon III who gave it the grand status it has enjoyed ever since, confirming the prediction of Louis XVI's eldest daughter, who had written: "Biarritz is a diamond awaiting only the gem-cutter's tool to become a jewel." Present-day Biarritz is still the height of fashion, but imperial waltzes and balls have made way for the aquatic ballets of the world's top surfers.

Thalassotherapy centres are now popular along the coast in resorts like Biarritz and St-Jean-de-Luz: being wrapped in seaweed and plastered in mud is effective in curing ailments and makes for a relaxing and invigorating holiday. The treatment's efficacy is recognised by the French health service.

The town of Bayonne flourished as a port during the English occupation of Aquitaine, and was frequently visited by Richard Coeur-de-Lion. When the English were ousted from the region the town was fortified against the Spaniards.

Bayonne is of course known for its ham, but the Basques have made two new-world foods their own: chocolate and chilli peppers. Chocolate was made in France for the first time in Bayonne; Jews escaping the Inquisition in France brought their trade secrets with them, and set up shop in Bayonne. Peppers are a vital component of Basque cuisine; in particular the small red piment d'Espelette grown in the Basque country. Espelette, one of the region's prettiest towns, is particularly memorable for the strings of chillies that are hung out to dry in front of each house. Every region in France has its local cheese, and in the Pyrenees you can find varieties made from ewe's, goat's and cow's milk. One to try is P'Ardi Gasna, which is delicious served with black cherry conserve.

The Basques, like the Bretons, are proud of their maritime heritage. The first navigator to circumnavigate the globe, with Magellan, was a Basque. They were also the first whalers in Europe. Up to the 18th century the trendy resort of St-Jean-de-Luz was a base for Arctic whaling ships, and it is still a thriving fishing port. Louis XIV was married to the Spanish princess Marie-Thérèse here in 1660. The town is also an important centre for thalassotherapy, which not only cures or alleviates ailments it but also makes for a relaxing and invigorating holiday.

The name of another town dedicated to Saint John — St-Jean-Pied-de-Port — masks the fact that it is a hilltop town at the foot of the Roncesvalles Pass. The town was a staging post on the Compostela route, and the word port in this context is a Pyrenean dialectal word meaning 'mountain pass'. The upper town is a picturesque site, and the houses backing on to the River Nive are a popular subject for photographers. St-Jean-Pied-de-Port is well known for its pelota court, on which the Basque championships are played every summer. The Basque Country is also known for its jeux de force, traditional trials of strength along similar lines to the Highland Games

The Parc National des Pyrénées, to the south-east of the département is an important conservation area, and its snow-capped mountains and white water are great attractions for mountain bikers, canoeists and other outdoors enthusiasts. In the heart of the département are two little-known geographical features that are well worth a visit: the gorges de Kakouetta and the crevasses d'Holcarté. The slightly scary suspension bridge affords some amazing views.