ABOVE: Cultivating his art.

Cultivating his art

Here is the fifth course, Madame,” says the waiter as he presents a huge mound of grey Guérande salt to me on a platter. From his proud smile, I can tell this is the pièce de résistance of this 12-course tasting menu.

As he cuts away the crunchy salt, I imagine what could have been baked inside; might it be an exotic fish plucked from a crystal clear ocean? Or perhaps a fillet of meat that will melt away the instant I put it in my mouth? After a few moments, the content is slowly revealed.

The full story can be found in pages - of this months magazine.

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